How to Apply Decorative Ideas to your Room

I think that there is an easy way to give a room a facelift which is to modernize hardware such as doorknobs) drawer pulls) and curtain rods.

You can put shells in baskets on a low table or show them off in glass canisters.

Store your needlework or mending in a pretty basket under a side table or in the foyer to keep it tidy and looks decorative) too.

A basketful of pinecones in front of the fireplace gives a room a feeling of friendliness.

In the fall, buy gourds at the supermarket. Use them for a month or so in an arrangement, then put them somewhere warm and dry for a while. The gourds become very light as they dry) and the colors mute beautifully with age.

Add a miniature hammock to a corner in a child's room to make a place for all his or her stuffed animals.

Keep your decorative baskets looking healthy by placing them away from dry heat.

A nonworking fireplace, primed and freshened with paint, makes a comfortable niche for a sewing machine table or an aquarium.

A stairway landing is the perfect place for an armoire. Line it with attractive fabric and fill it with linens, coats, or out-of-season clothes.

Display flowers in unusual vases-a crystal ice bucket, a fluted champagne glass, a bright coffee mug or jug. Flowers, in fact, look good in almost any container.

Turn your bathroom into a miniature gallery with pictures you don't have space for elsewhere-so long as they aren't works that can be damaged by the humidity that collects in a bathroom.

If you don't want to buy furniture, you can rent it at surprisingly reasonable rates. Furniture for rent includes everything from sofas and carpets to lamps and works of art.

A silver goblet is perfect for holding candies or cigarettes on a coffee table.

To keep drying flowers dust-free, cover them with plastic bags punched with air holes. When the flowers have dried, spray them with hair spray.

This will serve several purposes: The hair spray will give the flowers a clear matte finish, keep them from shedding, keep insects away, and protect them from moisture.

I think that there is an easy way to give a room a facelift which is to modernize hardware such as doorknobs) drawer pulls) and curtain rods.

You can put shells in baskets on a low table or show them off in glass canisters.

Store your needlework or mending in a pretty basket under a side table or in the foyer to keep it tidy and looks decorative) too.

A basketful of pinecones in front of the fireplace gives a room a feeling of friendliness.

In the fall, buy gourds at the supermarket. Use them for a month or so in an arrangement, then put them somewhere warm and dry for a while. The gourds become very light as they dry) and the colors mute beautifully with age.

Add a miniature hammock to a corner in a child's room to make a place for all his or her stuffed animals.

Keep your decorative baskets looking healthy by placing them away from dry heat.

A nonworking fireplace, primed and freshened with paint, makes a comfortable niche for a sewing machine table or an aquarium.

A stairway landing is the perfect place for an armoire. Line it with attractive fabric and fill it with linens, coats, or out-of-season clothes.

Display flowers in unusual vases-a crystal ice bucket, a fluted champagne glass, a bright coffee mug or jug. Flowers, in fact, look good in almost any container.

Turn your bathroom into a miniature gallery with pictures you don't have space for elsewhere-so long as they aren't works that can be damaged by the humidity that collects in a bathroom.

If you don't want to buy furniture, you can rent it at surprisingly reasonable rates. Furniture for rent includes everything from sofas and carpets to lamps and works of art.

A silver goblet is perfect for holding candies or cigarettes on a coffee table.

To keep drying flowers dust-free, cover them with plastic bags punched with air holes. When the flowers have dried, spray them with hair spray.

This will serve several purposes: The hair spray will give the flowers a clear matte finish, keep them from shedding, keep insects away, and protect them from moisture.

Some flowers and foliage can be placed in a vase without water and dried upright. Among them are pussy willows, wild grasses, and grains and flowers with large composite heads and sturdy stalks-for example, Queen Anne's lace and cockscomb.

Layer seeds and nuts in attractive apothecary bottles.

A branch cut from any blossoming tree or bush makes an unusual centerpiece on a dining or coffee table.

Glue corn pads or pieces of felt to the rough bottoms of vases and art objects to keep them from scratching tables.

Replace a drab string cord or light-bulb chain with a piece of satin piping or silver cord.

Thread a bright ceramic bead at the end of the cord for a finishing touch.

Use leftover dining room wallpaper to make matching place mats. Paste the paper onto sturdy cardboard, trim the edges neatly, and coat each mat with a plastic spray.

A handy deodorizer for waste baskets: Place a sheet of fabric softener in the bottom of each.

You can make unusual centerpieces in no time by floating flowers in clear glass dessert dishes.

Fill the dishes half-way with water, cut the stems from the flowers, and place them in the dishes.

Dime store bandannas make pretty, inexpensive pillow covers. Buy assorted colors for a striking effect. These bandannas also make wonderful table napkins-especially for a picnic or a barbecue.

Hot peppers threaded on long string make a beautiful kitchen decoration while drying. Garlic and onions also look attractive braided and hung on display.

Old, carved doorknobs, attached to each end of a dowel, make an attractive curtain rod.

Paint or stain the knobs to match your furniture.

A basket of Italian onions makes a striking centerpiece when serving an Italian dinner. Pomegranates are also beautiful in bowls.

A ceramic tile or tiles make a decorative hot pad for the table or kitchen counter.

Use old pantyhose to stuff pillows and toys.

There's no need to invest in wallpaper to give your walls new life. A super graphic on the wall can make a room exciting. Or, if you have artistic ability (or just ambition) design and paint your own mural.

An old kimono can be draped on a wall for an elegant splash of texture and color.

Any combination of fruits in a bowl can double as both centerpiece and dessert.

Solve a bicycle storage problem: A bicycle hanging on a wall becomes a piece of art as well as a means of transportation. A high-tech look for a teenager s room, perhaps?

An old dining table found at a flea market can make a great sofa-height coffee table. Just cut the legs to the height you need.

Change the look of an old Formica table by laminating the surface with colorful fabric.

If you're serving messy finger food-fried chicken or ribs, for instance- provide finger bowls: float lemon slices in small glass dishes so that guests can rinse their fingers. Since finger bowls are an old-fashioned elegance and seldom seen these days, be ready to enlighten anyone who assumes that you're serving a rather odd sort of cold lemon soup.

You can make cheap floor rugs by stenciling canvas with nontoxic acrylic paints.

Make an extra closet into a book nook for quiet reading. Remove the door, and install a wall lamp, shelves, and a comfortable chair.

Put an unwrapped bar of soap in a drawer or linen closet to give lingerie and linens a pleasant scent.

Also, you may create low-cost bookcases out of flue tiles or conduit pipes. The cubbyholes are perfect for storing wine. 

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Innovative and Creative Interior Design ideas

Obviously any room will seem larger if you paint a big piece of furniture the same color as the walls.

A minor room can be made to appear larger if you put mirrors on a wall to reflect the rest of the room.

To give a room a lax radiance, light objects in a room instead of the whole room. For example, spotlight a piece of art or a bookcase.

Hang shiny, metallic blinds vertically or horizontally to help reflect summer sun attractively. This works especially well in south and west windows where you can't construct awnings.

Decorative shades can make an attractive alternative to drapes-and may be a lot cheaper.

You can make a curtain panel from a bed-sheet by knotting the top corners around a bamboo pole.

Your old removable-slat wooden blinds can be renovated. Spread the slats outdoors on newspaper and finish with high-gloss spray paint or brush-on enamel.

To make a quick floor covering for a beach house, stretch natural-colored painter's canvas from wall to wall, stapling it to the baseboards.

If you use the same fabric on 2 different chairs, it will tie the decor of the room together.

To add color to matchstick blinds, weave rows of colored ribbon through them.

Give a floor an exciting new look: Paint it a bright color or paint on a stencil design.

A screen of hanging plants can be a great substitute for curtains.

For an uncommon window covering, attach wooden rings to a patchwork quilt and hang it from a wide, wooden rod. Don't do this, however, if the quilt is an antique that could fade or otherwise be damaged by exposure to sunlight.

Extra high-gloss vinyl flooring like that used on submarines and ships' decks makes fine flooring for lofts, darkrooms, and photo studios. You should be able to get it at an army surplus store.

If you want to make a large room seem smaller or cozier, choose a wallpaper with a large, bold pattern. However, don't choose a large pattern for a small room because it will make the available space seem crowded.

When selecting a wallpaper for a particular room, keep in mind the dominant colors already present in that room. One or more of those colors should be present in the wallpaper to tie the color scheme together.

Matchstick blinds can disguise a wall of hobby or utility shelves for a clean, unified look.

They also can be used to partition off a closet or dressing area where you would like a lighter look than a door provides.

In a beach house, use roll-down window blinds to make a door for a door-less room.

A mural-pattern wallpaper makes a small room appear larger.

No shelf space in your office? Hang slatted boxes for storage of scissors, envelopes, even a cassette recorder. Drape a shade-loving ivy in the topmost box.

If you have an Indian print bedspread that you don't use, hang it full-width across a window.

Open it slantwise across half the window and secure it with a tieback.

For a quick, easy, and inexpensive way to recover a chair, drape a twin-size sheet over the chair, and tie or pin the corners to fit.

Use mix-and-match wallpapers to simplify the problem of papering adjoining rooms without visual clashes.

A pretty or unusual blanket can substitute for a table cloth.

Mexican serapes and Indian bedspreads make colorful, inexpensive table cloths-great for picnics) too.

Fasten bright and colorful paper shopping bags to the wall for storage of art supplies and other lightweight items.

To make a high ceiling seem lower) paper it with a bold pattern. To make a low ceiling seem higher) paper it with a small print or a texture.

To brighten up the office) put pencils and pens in a flowerpot and use a music stand for a magazine rack.

You'll never have trouble tightening screws and bolts if you remember that) for most) right is tight and left is loose.

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Cutting, Sewing and Lining Draperies

Cutting your overdraperies does not differ greatly from cutting glass curtains. Much depends on understanding your material. Just as a good carver understands Ms wood, you must work with the weave of your fabric, hanging your curtains straight with the warp and woof. Many materials come from the factory with the fabric rolled more tightly at one end than at the other, so that the horizontal (woof) threads are crooked, and this happens particularly in the case of loosely-woven materials and linings. When you have removed the selvages, it is a good idea to ask some one to take the other end, holding the fabric with both hands as you would a blanket you wanted to shake out, and pull it gently from corner to corner. Be careful not to injure or wrinkle the material This will straighten the threads. Press the fabric before sewing, so that it will be easier to work with.

As with glass fabrics, cut on a woof thread: keep verifying your measurements with a tape measure as you go along. You will probably save time if you cut all your panels at once.

Casings, headings and hems on draperies are made in the same way as outlined in the discussion on glass curtains. Hems at the bottom for draperies may be wider if a heavier fabric is used to hide metal weights.

Lining Your Draperies

It is generally agreed that unless draperies depend on sheerness for effect, they should be lined. Linings not only protect the fabric from exposure to weather and sun, but also help the draperies to add warmth to the room. Even though nowadays windows are weather stripped, frames fit better than in the past, home insulation methods have improved, and fabrics can stand up against the aging effects of weather, linings are still valid in older homes and are still good for many fabrics. Besides, linings help the draperies to fall in richer folds. Sateen, the most widely used lining material, is usually a cream color, but if your drapery is very white, you can get white sateen. For richer fabrics you can use taffeta, and for taffeta draperies use a silk mull or taffeta lining. Satin is recommended as a good lining fabric for velvet, but it is costly.

As mentioned in the chapter on measurements, your lining fabric is, to begin with, the same width and length as your drapery material. You will want to cut it so that it is 2 inches shorter at the top than the drapery fabric, and 3 inches shorter at the bottom hem, as well as at least 2 inches shorter than the sides. Cut all the lining panels to these measurements at the same time, and cut the selvages from the lining. To insure that the lining and drapery will hang straight and not be drawn at the edges, notch both materials about every 5 or 6 inches. Now fold your lining in half and lengthwise, so that it is divided evenly. Crease down the middle and baste a seam, down the crease. Then lay the basted lining on the wrong side of the fabric, still folded, so that the basted line will be centered on the fabric. If the lining were open to its full width at this time, you would have 2 inches of drapery fabric extending beyond the lining on either side, 3 inches at the top and 2 inches at the bottom. Now with the lining still folded, catch stitch your creased, basted line to the center of the drapery fabric, thus anchoring your lining into place. Unfold and turn the top edge of the material over the lining and baste, using long and short stitches. Turn the side edges in, and baste. Turn up the bottom hem, not in a single turn, but a hem, and catch-stitch this into place, using a strong thread if your material is heavy. Use a mitered corner. Your lining will now fall below the top of the hem and it, too, gets turned up and stitched. The lining should end, when finished, less than an inch from the bottom of the curtain. Catch the sewing line of the lining hem and that of the material together with long loops, so that the drapery and lining can be detached easily for cleaning.

For an even warmer and heavier drapery, you can interline with cotton flannel. To do this, cut your interlining to finished drapery dimensions, and fold in same manner as the lining, tacking the interlining loosely to the wrong side of the drapery material in the exact center. Then divide each side of interlining, basting the edges and catch stitching the bottom hem. The outside lining can then be tacked to the center of the interlining, and slip stitched to the interlining material along the hem edge. Interlinings, however, are rarely used, as they make a drapery difficult to clean and are very heavy. They are used in very formal rooms, and add considerably to the draping quality of the fabric.

For picture-window draperies special treatment is needed, since it is necessary to seam together enough widths of fabric to draw the draperies together. To do this, measure twice the width of the window and seam together enough sections of fabric to cover it. Cut a matching number of lining panels, seam them together, and sew to the fabric along the top edge and outside edges. Hem the lower edges separately.

With this type of drapery or any heavy drapery, such as one with interlining, there may be a tendency for the material to sag away from the lining unless caught at intervals every few inches with loose tackings. This tacking can be put on after the lining has been pinned in, with a long, lengthwise stitch. To do this, unpin the lining on one side and fold it back so that the two wrong sides are exposed. Catch the two together with a basting stitch that won't show on the right sides of either lining or drapery. Make knots frequently. Then repin and sew lining and drapery hem as described. 

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Cutting and Sewing Glass Curtains

Cutting and Sewing Glass Curtains 

Always measure and cut from a perfectly straight edge. To straighten the edge in a glass curtain pull a thread and cut along this. Be careful, however, if you are not accustomed to sewing, that you don't end up by making a wide tear in your fabric. If this first thread does not appear to be a straight edge, don't keep trying; it is safer to mark your line with tape pinned to the material and to keep measuring as you go along. Be sure your scissors are sharp, to avoid pulling threads. Cut the selvage off, as this material shrinks faster than the rest, and will tend to draw the fabric to the edges.

Sew your side hems first, before finishing top and bottom. Hems at the side can be narrow, although currently it is fashionable to have at least 1 inch for large windows. It is also customary to make those hems of each panel that meet at the center o the window facing one another, at least 1 inch wide. Double stitching at the side hems insures long wear. For wide hems, turn the raw edge under one quarter inch, and crease, measuring every few inches to make certain the hem is even. Pinch, baste and then hem. Go through the same steps with your bottom hem.

When you have your bottom hems basted do not sew to the edge where the two hems overlap. Instead, pull out the loose triangular piece left at the corner, pin it on the diagonal, and cut above the pin, leaving just enough on each side of the seam to turn under. Sew the turned-over edge, starting at the lower edge and sewing toward the center. This is what is known as a mitered corner.

Cutting and Sewing Glass Curtains 

Allow a double turn of material for very sheer fabrics. If you need weights in the bottom of your curtains, the recommended kinds are the round string weights, and they can be laid along the bottom, tacked on behind the hem.

Several alternatives are possible for the top hem of your glass curtain. First, if yours is a tailored curtain, you may want just a plain casing for the rod to slip through. Allow enough material for the rod to slip in and out easily. And if you intend to attach the curtain to a brass pole, as in a sash curtain, with small brass rings, a simple, wide hem, 1 to 2 inches, will do.

Or you may want a plain heading with a plain casing. For this make a simple hem with open ends. Double your line of stitches on your side hems to prevent the stitches pulling out. Take a tuck on the wrong side of the curtain, just under the casing, for your shrinkage allowance, and if your allowance for shrinkage is large, divide the total sum in half and put half at the bottom hem in the same way, on the wrong side, just above the hem. Use basting stitches for the tuck. If you are making a heading and casing in ruffled curtains, extend the stitching through the ruffles.

If your material is too pliable or your heading is too wide to stand up by itself, then you may want to add some buckram or crinoline to stiffen it. Draw a thread on the stiffening and cut along it, making the stiffening slightly less than the finished width of the curtain. Lay it along the top edge of the heading and fold over, folding the sides in two to make them equalize with the width of the side hems. Stitch the heading and stiffening at the top and then fold over and stitch at the bottom of the stiffening again. This time you will be stitching in the stiffening and at the same time making the seam that divides heading and casing.

Another possible heading for glass curtains is to make a series of rows of fine shirring, and then hang the curtains from the back with small brass rings attached to the back. This makes the heading stand out a little, and if you cord your shirring it gives a pleasingly stiff impression. If you are using a sewing machine you can get an attachment such as the Singer gathering foot, which pushes the fabric into even folds under the needle for this work; if you are sewing by hand use fine running stitches, spacing even rows.

Cutting and Sewing Glass Curtains 

To make corded shirring, another attachment is useful, the cording foot, which makes it possible to stitch close to a raised surface. Crease or baste evenly-spaced rows across the fabric and lay a cord along the creased line on the wrong side, folding the material over it and stitching close to the cord. For either the plain shirring or the corded shirring, the procedure is the same: make a group of three or more rows of shirring, at least 1 inch from top of curtain, then skip about 2% inches, fold, make more rows of shirring, and fold over so that the two groups are even and can be stitched together.

In glass curtains various types of fancy stitching are often used at the hem or heading, as particularly with simple gauzes and muslins they are felt to add to the effect of the material. Currently, however, with the vogue for straight hanging, softly-tailored styles, an even hem or double bottom hem with, perhaps, a soft ruffle at the top, is sufficient, and the beauty of the curtain lies rather in the color and texture of the fabric than in any applied ornamentation. But there is still room for hemstitching and Italian hemstitching in informal Provincial rooms, and this type of needle-work in threads of contrasting color provides a gay detail.

A plain woven fabric is necessary for hemstitching since it depends on the cross-hatch pattern of the weave. You begin by pulling out about 5 parallel woof (horizontal) threads. Sometimes in pulling a thread you may have to prick at it with your needle as you go across the length of your material, and you should be careful not to get careless and make a hole. Then, beginning at the left, fasten your thread to the top of the hem by sewing the hem and body of the curtain together. Catch up several of the vertical (warp) threads (some four or five) starting with the furthest thread and coming back towards the left, and fasten this stitch by stitching a bit of the curtain and hem together. The Italian hemstitch is one in which you pull your thread in two directions, leaving some untouched, solid fabric in between.

Next in popularity to straight-tailored glass curtains are Priscillas, or looped back, ruffled, cottagy-looking curtains. Ruffles may also, of course, be used as trim for the straight-hung types. Whiles ruffles may be bought by the yard ready-made, they are easy to make, particularly with a sewing machine attachment that both gathers and pleats. Generally the more sheer the fabric, the fuller the ruffle should be. It is considered proper to cut strips for ruffles the length of the material, since crosswise ruffles eventually lose their stiffness. This also eliminates the problem of seams. But for pleated ruffles it is necessary to cut on the crosswise thread. The Singer Company makes the suggestion that when using the Singer ruffler it is wise to test this attachment with a scrap of your fabric and adjust it to gather up just the amount of fullness you wish. Figure on having 3 times the length of your finished raffle for a moderately full ruffle.

It is customary to hem the edges of ruffles. For an even, narrow hem, effective in a sheer fabric, use a flange hemmer, if sewing by machine. To apply ruffles to the curtain, stitch them to the first row of stitching on the hem. Crowd the gathers up slightly at the corners. This results in a heading, or row of gathered tucks, on the portion of curtain which overlaps the  ruffle overlapping the curtain. To attach a ruffle without a heading, stitch it to the curtain, placing the wrong sides together as for a French seam, turn the material over the seam, bring the right sides together, and stitch on the wrong side through the first row of stitching. Double rows of ruffles are very feminine and pleasing, and if the ruffles are narrow, as many as five rows may be used.

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Valances, Cornices, Swags (Valances)

Valances

Valances, Cornices, Swags (Valances)

Stiffened valances seem to go in and out of style. Just a few years ago a formal valance was considered very old-fashioned, but today with increasing use of elaborate period decor, the more formal valances are good once more. This also holds for the draped valance with jabots, a treatment most adaptable to formal rooms using satins, taffetas, and other rich fabrics.

A valance board is very easily constructed by mounting a shelf about 3/8 % inch thick and four inches wide on a 4 inch metal corner, which is fastened to the wall with screws or toggle bolts.

To make a stiff valance, cut a pattern the width of your window from a piece of stiff brown paper or muslin. Make it as deep as you think correct, remembering that deep valances cut down the appearance of height and may seem overwhelming in a small room. The usual depth is from one-sixth to one-eight the length of your draperies.

Fold at the center to make the curve symmetrical; if you want a curved valance, make the curve deeper at the center and cut a graceful swirl. With your paper pattern as a guide cut your buckram or canvas stiffening the same size and shape. Cut the side piece the width of the side of your shelf, or valance board. Bind the raw edges of the buckram so they won't pierce the fabric of the covering later. Place this buckram pattern on your fabric and cut around it, leaving about an inch-wide border all around, that you will later turn over. You can then cut a matching piece of cotton padding, although this is optional, and a matching piece of sateen lining, the size of your buckram pattern. Lay all together, placing the fabric right side up, the lining right side down, and the stiffening on top. Stitch along the lower edge, and turn so that the stiffening lies in between. Overcast the top and ends, tucking in the raw edges as you sew.

Valances, Cornices, Swags (Valances)

A welting along the edge of a shaped valance increases the look of good tailoring. Baste the welting between the fabric and the lining before machine stitching all the layers together. The welting should be turned so the round edge is inside and all the raw edges outside, in order to have it fall correctly when it is turned right side out. Another finish for this type of valance is a moss fringe, applied along the front four edges to give a boxy look.

Sew a strip of twill tape across the back of the lining with strong thread, and then use this tape to tack the valance to the valance board with wood snappers or thumb tacks.

You can use a rod instead o a valance board for a softer effect, using a plain rod or a double rod on which your curtains hang, too. In this case you leave a slot or opening for the rod to pass through, or provide a casing with heading as for a curtain. For a gathered or shirred valance of this type make the valance about twice the length needed for the width of the window. Double the depth needed, and add a seam allowance. Crease the material down the center and fold on the crease lengthwise, turning the right sides together. Sew one side and the top, leaving an opening large enough for your rod to pass through at each side, near the top. Turn inside out, so that the fabric is now on the right side on both front and back, and sew the remaining side. Then seam a casing for the rod. When adjusted to the rod this should result in a generously shirred valance, with heading.

Ruffled valances may hang from a rod in much the same manner. If you wish to have two or three rows of ruffles, apply them to a plain foundation of muslin or sateen, made in the same manner as a plain valance.

Valances, Cornices, Swags (Valances)

The pleated valance is made in the same way as a regular plain valance, except that you must allow at least a full length more of material for the width. Take the width of your valance and allow another full length for pleating. Allow sufficient fabric at each end for a seam and for the sides. That is, if your valance is to be 36 inches, your fabric should be 72 inches wide. From that width, subtract the width of each side (let us say they are each 3 inches deep). This leaves 66 inches for pleating, and means that 30 inches of pleating can be used in the pleats. It is clear that the length of the fabric allowed for each pleat must be twice what you wish the pleat to be. If in our assumed valance we wish to have 10 pleats, by dividing 10 into 30, we have 3 inches to use in each pleat, and each pleat can be one-half of 3 inches deep, or 1% inches.

Next divide the numbered pleats into the width of the valance. This will give us the distance between each pleat In our valance this would mean dividing 36 by 10, or 3%th inches between pleats. The first and last pleats will be at the corners of the valance. After pinning the first pleat at top and bottom, the center of the next pleat will be equal to one-half the width of the pleat plus the distance we have already found necessary to leave between pleats.

Fold the pleats in on the pin marks, pressing them as you fold them. Then stitch them so that the folded edges facing one another are caught firmly together, and to reinforce this make two rows of stitching across the back of the entire valance. Hooks for attaching this type of valance to a cornice board can be sewn into the stitching reinforcing the pleats. 

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Life-Saving Hints for Curtains and Draperies

Life-Saving Hints for Curtains and Draperies 

A few precautions in storing, cleaning and laundering your curtains and draperies will add to their attractiveness and prolong their usefulness.

Curtains may be kept up and hung in cotton bags during the summer, which is an effective way of keeping them clean when windows are open, or when the family is away on vacation, or storage space and help are limited.

If the unwashable draperies are taken down, they should be brushed, aired and packed away in large boxes. Never pack curtains tightly, since it is hard to get the creases out again. Pile fabrics should be sent to the cleaner to be steamed if they are badly crushed.

With sheers that you wish to put away for the summer, wash them first, and then in the fall dampen and iron them before putting up.

When laundering glass curtains, let the tucks out first so that you can correct the length afterward, using your shrinkage allowance if you have to, and leaving a smaller tuck than the original one for the next tubbing.

Instead of attempting to shake out dust, rinse the curtains in a preliminary tubful of clear, lukewarm water. You will discover that you have loosened black dirt too, especially if you live in the city. For delicate materials use lots of suds to cushion the material, more than you would with apparel. If yours is a sturdy fabric, it can be washed in a machine. Use a mild soap. Squeeze the water out, don't rinse, and hang the curtains straight. If the fabric is net or lace and is not shrinkproof, you will need to use a stretcher. With many shrinkable materials, no matter what pre- cautions you take you will have shrinking, and the only course remaining will be to add a new heading that is, of course, unless you have included plenty of room in your shrinkage allowance. A little starch used with most glass fabrics will help to make them look crisp after washing. Ruffles particularly need stiffening for attractive starchiness.

Life-Saving Hints for Curtains and Draperies 

With delicate fabrics and colors, rolling in a towel after washing will help to preserve both the color and the fabric.

Color-fast heavy fabrics may be laundered, if care is exercised. Curtains and draperies may be dyed or tinted each season, as you will find they do not keep their color.

Iron curtains lengthwise with a warm iron, stretching them evenly, and when you are through hang them immediately, or lay them on a bed as, again, creases are hard to take out. Sometimes ironing causes curtains to hang unevenly and there is not much you can do about this. Automatic ironers do a better job of ironing, since the pressure is even.

Curtains and draperies that are faded, soiled or sun- burned irremediably at the bottom may be turned upside down, and the damaged part can be covered with cornice or valance, or carefully pleated so that it does not show.

Luckily, curtains and draperies that are somewhat worn always look much better once they are hung than they do in our hands. And trimmings and ruffles over worn edges will word wonders. Also panels may be reversed quite easily, with the right-hand side changed to the left, so that the outside edge which is worn or faded can be next to the trim and tucked under as much as possible, the other edge which was formerly protected by the trim now appearing quite fresh and unfaded. 

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How to Achieve a Modern Interior Design

There is some debate on where Modern Interior Design originated, but credit is generally given to a group of European designers and architects that started the German Bauhaus School of Design back in the early 1900’s – using the Bauhaus philosophy that “form should be combined with function” in interior design. This resulted in a change in the industry’s use of designing materials, as it introduced glass and metals to be incorporated into household furnishings and other elements of design.

With Your Furnishings: The furnishings for your living area will incorporate clean, sleek lines that reflect a delicate balance of simplicity and comfort while incorporating elements of metal, chrome or glass that results in an overall slimmer silhouette. Many say it would be the exact opposite of a Traditional Interior Design, which in contrast incorporates bulky furniture and wood elements. Keep in mind, the use of the “form and function” method is prominent with a Modern Design – so the placement of the furniture is just as important as the type or style of the furniture.

With Your Walls and Color Scheme: When incorporating your color scheme you will discover there is a certain “coolness” that needs to be achieved to reflect the feel of the Modern Interior. Toned down colors add to the effect when using tone on tone or white for paint choices. Inspiration is pulled from the sleek, metal lines of the furnishings to create a soothing backdrop which adds to the simplicity and aura that a Modern Design Style encompasses.

With Your Fabrics: Texture will play a role as it will offset the rather sleek lines of your furnishing elements. Keeping the colors of the fabrics neutral will add to the cohesiveness of the room, but the texture will be what makes the room resonate with warmth. By using fabric drapes for your Window Treatments, you will pull in softness and add comfort – but choosing to go with blinds will also be complimentary to the overall simplistic theme of the design. Both options will work well and will depend on the overall function you require.

With Your Accessories: Many Interior Design themes have a minimalistic approach, the Modern Interior Design style is no different as its basic platform is “less is more”. Choose understated accessories that blend rather than demand attention – unless it is the focal point of the room. The use of metal and glass are prominent in accessorizing, as well as framed art or other wall hangings. Remember to emphasis clean lines and “de-clutter”.

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Curtains Design for the Living Room

Curtains Design for the Living Room

In our article we will see curtains and shutters combined in the same living room. This is so the sunlight can be managed from the predominant light source. The other window can stay “undressed” except for the curtain at the side which can be drawn at night. This way a view can be seen during the day through the window, and the harsh light through the other can be negated. A patterned fabric has been selected, the background color is the same as the wall color which allows them to sit quietly in the corner and blend, add some pattern to the simple design and decoration of the room, but not overwhelm.

Curtains Design for the Living Room

Simple cream curtains in this living room abruptly stop the boldness of the red color of the walls. The room is warm and cozy, then bang! The cream curtains frame the window for you to look at the view. A roller blind has been used to block the sun when required with a decorative scalloped lower edge.

Curtains Design for the Living Room

The curtain design in this living room is one of the focal points of the room. They are used to frame the window and the view. They are held back with hold backs keeping the fabric is a particular manner to permanently frame the window. The fabric is darker than the walls so you are naturally drawn to it and it sets a formal tone to the room. The heading is very ornate, and coordinates with the quality and style of the furniture and accessories of the living room.

Curtains Design for the Living Room

A rouched valance with tails provides a formal curtain for this living room. The curtains are allowed to hang quite fully and held back at a low point with cord tie backs. The use of sheers and such a full drape of fabric blocks the view out the window and allows you to focus on the living room and the detail of the ceiling and the chandelier.

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Creative Ideas for Living Room Curtain

What looks better at night than luxury curtains drawn in your living room, they make the space appear warm and cozy and add texture and color to the room.

Throughout the day the curtains frame the window adding softness and design to the living room.

Get some ideas for unusual types of curtains that can be used in the living room as decoration or as functional curtains. The photographs will probably glimmer your imagination and provide you with ideas to create original curtain design ideas of your own.

Curtain Ideas for Living Rooms

Creative Ideas for Living Room Curtain

It isn't necessary for Curtains to be functional; they can be used purely for decorative purposes, adding design flair. Here a lovely brass curtain rod is used and fabric appears to be draped over the rod and the tied in a waisted form. It is a very novel and individual approach to window drapery. It covers the window frames and breaks up the window space form, softening the wall of blinds.

Creative Ideas for Living Room Curtain

This is a curtain design idea that I have never seen before. For myself, I don’t like it but it does create a talking point. As you can see different fabrics have been used for each side of the window curtain and the tie backs. The more I look at it the more I dislike it. Firstly I think that the fabric is too light compared to the upholstery fabric of the chairs and sofas, it is in a different style and not in keeping, secondly I feel that they are hiding the lovely detail of the windows behind. I will stop there!

Creative Ideas for Living Room Curtain

We don’t always have to have heavy lined curtains for the living room. Here you can see sheers have been used effectively as curtains, creating a soft and delicate look at the windows. This curtain design idea creates an informal feel to the living room space.

Creative Ideas for Living Room Curtain

Once again, a brass curtain rod has been used to create decorative window treatments in this living room. These curtains are purely decorative and sit at the sides of the windows and have a contrasting swag hanging from the top. This look formalizes the living room, and is an idea for window treatments if you don’t need the privacy or insulation properties of curtains, you solely require the aesthetics.

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Valances, Cornices, Swags and that Built-in Look

Valances, Cornices, Swags and that Built-in Look

Today when a smooth, unified look is one of the things we expect from a good room, built-in bookcases, desks, and even furniture, are designed to suit it. We attempt to make furnishings seem so natural to the room that they are actually part of its architecture. Curtains and draperies help to achieve this smooth-flowing atmosphere, and when they too appear to be built in, the feeling is enhanced. Cornices and valances go a long way towards uniting the drapery with the wall, relating the window to the rest of the room.

They not only conceal the mechanics of the drapery operation, the rods and hooks, and the window frame itself (which is apt to be anything but ornamental in an older house or apartment), but they unite two or more windows, making them seem one large unit, and they can be used decoratively to echo a color or wallpaper or fabric pattern in the room. As they are, in a way, part of the architecture of the room, they must be used judiciously.

You can actually use your wall paper to cover a wood or metal cornice or valance board, or you can cover the boards with a correlated drapery material. Many firms are now producing wallpapers and fabrics in exact duplicates, and some fabric houses have groups of three correlated fabrics so that you can match your valance and drapery in complementary colors and weaves.

Other ideas include mounting a group of small framed prints or photographs on your valance; using stripes on a bias to match vertically striped draperies; using the expensive fabric you could not afford for draperies in your valances; covering them with the new wallpapers that simulate marble, brick, etc. If you make a hobby of finishing woods, you might give an interesting wood finish to a plain pine cornice.

You can buy unpainted hardwood cornices and valance boards at the hardware counter of the drapery section of your department store. Some stores even have assembled cornices with traverse rods installed.

If you buy a ready-made cornice, it is safest to get an adjustable one.

Valances, Cornices, Swags and that Built-in Look

Just to make things clear, valances, cornices and swags are variations of the same thing, the top finish of the window. A valance may be either hard or soft, depending on whether it hangs from a wooden board or not. When it is a curving piece of material with draped ends it is a swag, and when a swag is held at either corner by rings it is a festoon. A cornice is  usually a valance of straight rectangular shape with the board parallel to the window whereas the valance board is at right angles to the window like a shelf. Valances are often used to make a tall window seem shorter, and to make a high ceiling lower. Swags provide color contrast and interest to draperies without headings.

If you or your husband is at all handy with carpentry tools, it is simple enough to make your own cornice, however, since you need only nail together three boards, each about % inch thick. The two side boards will be about 6 inches long, the front board the width you wish the cornice to be. If you want to make your cornice adjustable, take 3 boards for the front piece, and nail them together with the center one on top, and overlapping the other two. To make the cornice shorter, increase the amount of overlapping. Decrease it to make it longer, pulling out the nails. Cornice brackets for attaching the cornice, or valance, to the wall, may be bought in hardware stores and many stores carry them. One part of the bracket plate is attached to the wall; the other to the cornice, and a screw fits through holes in each.  

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How to Add Softness to your Home with Fabrics

How to Add Softness to your Home with Fabrics

Tired of the way your home looks?  Add a fresh, updated appearance to your home with fabric! Sewing for your home can be quick and easy, and you'll have professional results using timesaving methods that require a minimum of sewing skills.  If you don't sew at all, don't give up!  Many items can be created with no-sew techniques.  Guidelines are available for selecting fabrics appropriate for your project . . . whether you’re making the items yourself or having someone makes them for you. Fabric furnishings add softness and a distinctive character to any room.  You’ll discover almost limitless ways to use fabrics in decorating with curtains, draperies, upholstery, bedspreads, dust ruffles and tablecloths.  Fabrics are both attractive and practical on walls and ceilings or when used for room dividers, padded headboards for beds, wall hangings, picture frames, pillows of all kinds and shapes, storage devices and any number of other creative uses.  Look for ideas as you browse through decorating books and magazines or page through pattern books found at fabric stores.  Take time to observe the uses of fabrics in store displays, model homes and even the homes of your friends.  Don't try to copy ideas, however, but adapt them to create your own one-of-a-kind items.

 

Fabric Choices

Shopping for fabrics can be both fun and frustrating because there’s an unlimited variety of fabric colors, textures and designs available. Consider trying an idea used by professional designers by selecting a fabric in a pattern and colors that you like as the basis for a room’s color scheme.  More companies are now offering coordinating fabrics that make designing your room a real delight.  Wide fabric widths of 54", 60", 90" and even 120" mean less piecing and also reduce both cost and sewing time.  Bed sheets provide another source for wide widths of fabric in the latest colors and patterns.

Select fabrics that are appropriate for the intended use and desired method of care.  They should also look well with the other furnishings in the room.  Study design trends for current colors and patterns and be alert to new ideas that are starting to appear in stores and magazines. Then use these new colors and patterns to give your present furnishings an updated look.

How to Add Softness to your Home with Fabrics

Purchasing Pointers

As you are planning your project and selecting the fabric, consider the following guidelines:

* Know your budget limitations before you go out to buy. Having a price range established help to eliminate some choices immediately.

* Take time to plan your project carefully.  What colors are used in the room?  How will one pattern complement or blend with another?  What will this item add to the decor of the room?

* Measure carefully and write down these dimensions to take with you when shopping.  Also include a tape measure, pad, pencil, paint chips, fabric and carpet samples, so you'll be prepared for comparing colors and purchasing items that you need for the project.

* Be careful with color!  If you are considering either a bright or a dark color, will it be placed where direct sunlight will hit it?  Some dark colors fade very quickly, and bright, intense colors will stand out as new when combined with older furnishings in a room.  In situations such as this, choose more subdued or grayed colors.  And remember that colors change dramatically when viewed under different lighting or with different color combinations.  Play it safe by asking if a large sample is available to be taken out and viewed in the intended setting.  When samples are not available, purchase a yard to try out in your home in both daylight and night lighting.

* Examine the fabric construction before buying.  Remember that  fiber content, type of yarn, fabric construction and finishing techniques all play a part in determining the serviceability of the fabric.  As a rule, the tighter the yarns are twisted, the longer the wear you can reasonably expect.  The tighter the weave or higher the thread count (number of threads per inch), the stronger the fabric. It pays to use good quality fabrics for most decorating projects. The items last longer and give a finer finished look.  Consider, too, the  length of time you expect to use these items. You'll need a better quality fabric for draperies that you expect to last 10 to 15 years than you will for a pair of kitchen curtains that you plan to replace in two or three years.  Don't hesitate to ask your County Extension agent for help or guidance.

* Carefully evaluate the appropriateness of the fabric, color, pattern and texture, keeping the intended use in mind.   Is the fabric sturdy enough for the intended use?  Is it soft enough to drape if you want it to drape or crisp enough to hold a desired shape?

* Ask for and read carefully any labels and hang tags that are attached to, printed on or come with the fabric.  These are important guides in knowing how to care for your finished items.  If using a washable fabric, plan to pre-shrink it along with other materials, such as buckram or linings. Do not wash a fabric if dry cleaning is recommended.  Vacuum these items regularly to prevent dust from accumulating on the fabric surface.  It is recommended that fabrics be thoroughly vacuumed, dry cleaned or laundered after the pollen season for health reasons, especially if someone in your household has allergies.  Electronic air cleaners or regular cleaning/changing of the filter on forced-air furnaces will help to protect fabrics from dust.  Dust may also be removed by tumbling fabric items, such as drapery panels, in the clothes dryer without heat.

* Consider the size of a design when selecting fabric for your project.  Random patterns, small all over prints and stripes are easier to work with than large, strongly defined repeat patterns. Figuring the extra yardage that is needed for matching a repeat can become quite involved and add to the total cost of the project.  If you fall in love with a large or dominant pattern, be sure to purchase enough additional fabric to match patterns and complete the project.

* If a vertical line is important, such as for window curtains, be sure that any pattern is on-grain. Don't buy fabric that is printed off-grain or that has been pulled off-grain during finishing or wrapping on the bolt.  Examine the fabric carefully, and ask the sales clerk for help in determining if the fabric is grain perfect.

* If you are covering furniture or pillows, will the fabric require a lining to prevent showing through?  Most window coverings will be more durable and save energy if they are lined.

* Has the fabric been treated with a stain-repellant finish?  These finishes help in maintaining the appearance over a period of time.  To test the effectiveness of a stain resistant finish, drop a small amount of water on a fabric sample.  If the water beads up instead of soaking in, the fabric will repel stains.  After laundering or dry cleaning, this protective finish may need to be reapplied either by the dry cleaner or with a spray that can be purchased at retail stores.  However, read hang tags and warranties carefully for any precautions regarding recommended care and application of additional finishes.

* Buy all the fabric you need at one time and make a note of the dye lot number if available.  Dye lots differ, and what started as a raspberry color may turn brighter red in a later shipment. If a fabric continues to be available over a period of time and you decide to add more furnishings in the same or a coordinating fabric, be sure to check colors carefully before purchasing.

* Textile products and fabric furnishings are expected to be serviceable.  Ask yourself which of the following characteristics are most important--durability, comfort, care, appearance, fashion or price.  Use these rankings as guidelines when making your final selections.     

* Remember . . . haste makes waste.  Take time to think each project through carefully.  Allow time, too, to consider creative ways of finishing your project.  A little extra time and some imagination can turn the ordinary into the unusual and distinctive.

 

* Enjoy the creative process you are experiencing.  Then appreciate the praise and satisfaction you’ll receive for a job well done!

How to Add Softness to your Home with Fabrics

Figuring Fabric Amounts

Determining the amount of fabric that is needed for a project can be confusing.  However, it's not really difficult!  Purchased patterns and project instructions give instructions for yardage and suggested pattern placement for cutting pieces.  You can also make your own "layouts" just like those in pattern instructions to make best use of fabric if using odd shapes and sizes. To do this, use graph paper to draw rectangles to scale to represent widths of 45", 54" and 60" (or 90" and 120" widths if you know that you will be shopping for these wider fabrics).  Make a number of copies to use as "master" forms.

For each project, refer to the measurements you have taken and sketch out the pieces you'll need (fronts, backs, sides) on your master.  These sketches will tell you how many yards are needed for the width of fabric you are considering.  If piecing is necessary, you will also be able to determine how many "lengths" of fabric will be required to complete the project.  (Before you actually purchase fabric, remember to consider any additional allowances that may be needed for ½ inch seams, hems, directional patterns, fabric nap, design repeats and loft from batting or filler.)

Joining Lengths of Fabrics

When figuring the amount of yardage needed, remember that the primary rule for positioning seams is to make them as inconspicuous as possible. That usually means that seams will be placed on the side, rather than down the center of tablecloths and bedspreads.

Use selvage edges when possible for sewing lengths of fabric together.  Be sure to add ½ inch seam allowances to each piece for seams.

How to Add Softness to your Home with Fabrics

Matching Patterns

Any design repeat must be measured and figured carefully when purchasing fabrics.  Small prints may not be that noticeable, but larger prints can be as much as twenty or thirty inches in length for one repeat.  Measure the repeat on the fabric you are considering and add to the required yardage of each length to be pieced.  (For instance, there should be a full design repeat positioned along the top of each panel on fabric-covered walls or along the top of each curtain and drapery panel.)

One-Way Designs

If arranging pieces on a one-way design or napped fabric, such as velvet or corduroy, be sure that all pieces are placed in the correct (same) direction.  Check to be sure that patterns are matched when necessary and that large motifs are centered on cushions and tablecloths.

Also, check the design repeat across the width of the fabric to be sure that you will have enough fabric to complete your project as you would like for it to be finished.

Trims

Fringe, tassels, braid, cording, lace, ribbons and bows add distinction and character to otherwise plain items.  Consider the decorating style in the room as well as the weight and recommended care of fabric when you are selecting trims.  When planning the placement of trimmings, mark guidelines with either a water-soluble marking pen or a marker using ink that disappears. A glue stick will hold the trim in place while stitching.  Some trims can be attached with fusible fabric or glue.

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