Innovative and Creative Interior Design ideas

Obviously any room will seem larger if you paint a big piece of furniture the same color as the walls.

A minor room can be made to appear larger if you put mirrors on a wall to reflect the rest of the room.

To give a room a lax radiance, light objects in a room instead of the whole room. For example, spotlight a piece of art or a bookcase.

Hang shiny, metallic blinds vertically or horizontally to help reflect summer sun attractively. This works especially well in south and west windows where you can't construct awnings.

Decorative shades can make an attractive alternative to drapes-and may be a lot cheaper.

You can make a curtain panel from a bed-sheet by knotting the top corners around a bamboo pole.

Your old removable-slat wooden blinds can be renovated. Spread the slats outdoors on newspaper and finish with high-gloss spray paint or brush-on enamel.

To make a quick floor covering for a beach house, stretch natural-colored painter's canvas from wall to wall, stapling it to the baseboards.

If you use the same fabric on 2 different chairs, it will tie the decor of the room together.

To add color to matchstick blinds, weave rows of colored ribbon through them.

Give a floor an exciting new look: Paint it a bright color or paint on a stencil design.

A screen of hanging plants can be a great substitute for curtains.

For an uncommon window covering, attach wooden rings to a patchwork quilt and hang it from a wide, wooden rod. Don't do this, however, if the quilt is an antique that could fade or otherwise be damaged by exposure to sunlight.

Extra high-gloss vinyl flooring like that used on submarines and ships' decks makes fine flooring for lofts, darkrooms, and photo studios. You should be able to get it at an army surplus store.

If you want to make a large room seem smaller or cozier, choose a wallpaper with a large, bold pattern. However, don't choose a large pattern for a small room because it will make the available space seem crowded.

When selecting a wallpaper for a particular room, keep in mind the dominant colors already present in that room. One or more of those colors should be present in the wallpaper to tie the color scheme together.

Matchstick blinds can disguise a wall of hobby or utility shelves for a clean, unified look.

They also can be used to partition off a closet or dressing area where you would like a lighter look than a door provides.

In a beach house, use roll-down window blinds to make a door for a door-less room.

A mural-pattern wallpaper makes a small room appear larger.

No shelf space in your office? Hang slatted boxes for storage of scissors, envelopes, even a cassette recorder. Drape a shade-loving ivy in the topmost box.

If you have an Indian print bedspread that you don't use, hang it full-width across a window.

Open it slantwise across half the window and secure it with a tieback.

For a quick, easy, and inexpensive way to recover a chair, drape a twin-size sheet over the chair, and tie or pin the corners to fit.

Use mix-and-match wallpapers to simplify the problem of papering adjoining rooms without visual clashes.

A pretty or unusual blanket can substitute for a table cloth.

Mexican serapes and Indian bedspreads make colorful, inexpensive table cloths-great for picnics) too.

Fasten bright and colorful paper shopping bags to the wall for storage of art supplies and other lightweight items.

To make a high ceiling seem lower) paper it with a bold pattern. To make a low ceiling seem higher) paper it with a small print or a texture.

To brighten up the office) put pencils and pens in a flowerpot and use a music stand for a magazine rack.

You'll never have trouble tightening screws and bolts if you remember that) for most) right is tight and left is loose.

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Cutting, Sewing and Lining Draperies

Cutting your overdraperies does not differ greatly from cutting glass curtains. Much depends on understanding your material. Just as a good carver understands Ms wood, you must work with the weave of your fabric, hanging your curtains straight with the warp and woof. Many materials come from the factory with the fabric rolled more tightly at one end than at the other, so that the horizontal (woof) threads are crooked, and this happens particularly in the case of loosely-woven materials and linings. When you have removed the selvages, it is a good idea to ask some one to take the other end, holding the fabric with both hands as you would a blanket you wanted to shake out, and pull it gently from corner to corner. Be careful not to injure or wrinkle the material This will straighten the threads. Press the fabric before sewing, so that it will be easier to work with.

As with glass fabrics, cut on a woof thread: keep verifying your measurements with a tape measure as you go along. You will probably save time if you cut all your panels at once.

Casings, headings and hems on draperies are made in the same way as outlined in the discussion on glass curtains. Hems at the bottom for draperies may be wider if a heavier fabric is used to hide metal weights.

Lining Your Draperies

It is generally agreed that unless draperies depend on sheerness for effect, they should be lined. Linings not only protect the fabric from exposure to weather and sun, but also help the draperies to add warmth to the room. Even though nowadays windows are weather stripped, frames fit better than in the past, home insulation methods have improved, and fabrics can stand up against the aging effects of weather, linings are still valid in older homes and are still good for many fabrics. Besides, linings help the draperies to fall in richer folds. Sateen, the most widely used lining material, is usually a cream color, but if your drapery is very white, you can get white sateen. For richer fabrics you can use taffeta, and for taffeta draperies use a silk mull or taffeta lining. Satin is recommended as a good lining fabric for velvet, but it is costly.

As mentioned in the chapter on measurements, your lining fabric is, to begin with, the same width and length as your drapery material. You will want to cut it so that it is 2 inches shorter at the top than the drapery fabric, and 3 inches shorter at the bottom hem, as well as at least 2 inches shorter than the sides. Cut all the lining panels to these measurements at the same time, and cut the selvages from the lining. To insure that the lining and drapery will hang straight and not be drawn at the edges, notch both materials about every 5 or 6 inches. Now fold your lining in half and lengthwise, so that it is divided evenly. Crease down the middle and baste a seam, down the crease. Then lay the basted lining on the wrong side of the fabric, still folded, so that the basted line will be centered on the fabric. If the lining were open to its full width at this time, you would have 2 inches of drapery fabric extending beyond the lining on either side, 3 inches at the top and 2 inches at the bottom. Now with the lining still folded, catch stitch your creased, basted line to the center of the drapery fabric, thus anchoring your lining into place. Unfold and turn the top edge of the material over the lining and baste, using long and short stitches. Turn the side edges in, and baste. Turn up the bottom hem, not in a single turn, but a hem, and catch-stitch this into place, using a strong thread if your material is heavy. Use a mitered corner. Your lining will now fall below the top of the hem and it, too, gets turned up and stitched. The lining should end, when finished, less than an inch from the bottom of the curtain. Catch the sewing line of the lining hem and that of the material together with long loops, so that the drapery and lining can be detached easily for cleaning.

For an even warmer and heavier drapery, you can interline with cotton flannel. To do this, cut your interlining to finished drapery dimensions, and fold in same manner as the lining, tacking the interlining loosely to the wrong side of the drapery material in the exact center. Then divide each side of interlining, basting the edges and catch stitching the bottom hem. The outside lining can then be tacked to the center of the interlining, and slip stitched to the interlining material along the hem edge. Interlinings, however, are rarely used, as they make a drapery difficult to clean and are very heavy. They are used in very formal rooms, and add considerably to the draping quality of the fabric.

For picture-window draperies special treatment is needed, since it is necessary to seam together enough widths of fabric to draw the draperies together. To do this, measure twice the width of the window and seam together enough sections of fabric to cover it. Cut a matching number of lining panels, seam them together, and sew to the fabric along the top edge and outside edges. Hem the lower edges separately.

With this type of drapery or any heavy drapery, such as one with interlining, there may be a tendency for the material to sag away from the lining unless caught at intervals every few inches with loose tackings. This tacking can be put on after the lining has been pinned in, with a long, lengthwise stitch. To do this, unpin the lining on one side and fold it back so that the two wrong sides are exposed. Catch the two together with a basting stitch that won't show on the right sides of either lining or drapery. Make knots frequently. Then repin and sew lining and drapery hem as described. 

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Cutting and Sewing Glass Curtains

Cutting and Sewing Glass Curtains 

Always measure and cut from a perfectly straight edge. To straighten the edge in a glass curtain pull a thread and cut along this. Be careful, however, if you are not accustomed to sewing, that you don't end up by making a wide tear in your fabric. If this first thread does not appear to be a straight edge, don't keep trying; it is safer to mark your line with tape pinned to the material and to keep measuring as you go along. Be sure your scissors are sharp, to avoid pulling threads. Cut the selvage off, as this material shrinks faster than the rest, and will tend to draw the fabric to the edges.

Sew your side hems first, before finishing top and bottom. Hems at the side can be narrow, although currently it is fashionable to have at least 1 inch for large windows. It is also customary to make those hems of each panel that meet at the center o the window facing one another, at least 1 inch wide. Double stitching at the side hems insures long wear. For wide hems, turn the raw edge under one quarter inch, and crease, measuring every few inches to make certain the hem is even. Pinch, baste and then hem. Go through the same steps with your bottom hem.

When you have your bottom hems basted do not sew to the edge where the two hems overlap. Instead, pull out the loose triangular piece left at the corner, pin it on the diagonal, and cut above the pin, leaving just enough on each side of the seam to turn under. Sew the turned-over edge, starting at the lower edge and sewing toward the center. This is what is known as a mitered corner.

Cutting and Sewing Glass Curtains 

Allow a double turn of material for very sheer fabrics. If you need weights in the bottom of your curtains, the recommended kinds are the round string weights, and they can be laid along the bottom, tacked on behind the hem.

Several alternatives are possible for the top hem of your glass curtain. First, if yours is a tailored curtain, you may want just a plain casing for the rod to slip through. Allow enough material for the rod to slip in and out easily. And if you intend to attach the curtain to a brass pole, as in a sash curtain, with small brass rings, a simple, wide hem, 1 to 2 inches, will do.

Or you may want a plain heading with a plain casing. For this make a simple hem with open ends. Double your line of stitches on your side hems to prevent the stitches pulling out. Take a tuck on the wrong side of the curtain, just under the casing, for your shrinkage allowance, and if your allowance for shrinkage is large, divide the total sum in half and put half at the bottom hem in the same way, on the wrong side, just above the hem. Use basting stitches for the tuck. If you are making a heading and casing in ruffled curtains, extend the stitching through the ruffles.

If your material is too pliable or your heading is too wide to stand up by itself, then you may want to add some buckram or crinoline to stiffen it. Draw a thread on the stiffening and cut along it, making the stiffening slightly less than the finished width of the curtain. Lay it along the top edge of the heading and fold over, folding the sides in two to make them equalize with the width of the side hems. Stitch the heading and stiffening at the top and then fold over and stitch at the bottom of the stiffening again. This time you will be stitching in the stiffening and at the same time making the seam that divides heading and casing.

Another possible heading for glass curtains is to make a series of rows of fine shirring, and then hang the curtains from the back with small brass rings attached to the back. This makes the heading stand out a little, and if you cord your shirring it gives a pleasingly stiff impression. If you are using a sewing machine you can get an attachment such as the Singer gathering foot, which pushes the fabric into even folds under the needle for this work; if you are sewing by hand use fine running stitches, spacing even rows.

Cutting and Sewing Glass Curtains 

To make corded shirring, another attachment is useful, the cording foot, which makes it possible to stitch close to a raised surface. Crease or baste evenly-spaced rows across the fabric and lay a cord along the creased line on the wrong side, folding the material over it and stitching close to the cord. For either the plain shirring or the corded shirring, the procedure is the same: make a group of three or more rows of shirring, at least 1 inch from top of curtain, then skip about 2% inches, fold, make more rows of shirring, and fold over so that the two groups are even and can be stitched together.

In glass curtains various types of fancy stitching are often used at the hem or heading, as particularly with simple gauzes and muslins they are felt to add to the effect of the material. Currently, however, with the vogue for straight hanging, softly-tailored styles, an even hem or double bottom hem with, perhaps, a soft ruffle at the top, is sufficient, and the beauty of the curtain lies rather in the color and texture of the fabric than in any applied ornamentation. But there is still room for hemstitching and Italian hemstitching in informal Provincial rooms, and this type of needle-work in threads of contrasting color provides a gay detail.

A plain woven fabric is necessary for hemstitching since it depends on the cross-hatch pattern of the weave. You begin by pulling out about 5 parallel woof (horizontal) threads. Sometimes in pulling a thread you may have to prick at it with your needle as you go across the length of your material, and you should be careful not to get careless and make a hole. Then, beginning at the left, fasten your thread to the top of the hem by sewing the hem and body of the curtain together. Catch up several of the vertical (warp) threads (some four or five) starting with the furthest thread and coming back towards the left, and fasten this stitch by stitching a bit of the curtain and hem together. The Italian hemstitch is one in which you pull your thread in two directions, leaving some untouched, solid fabric in between.

Next in popularity to straight-tailored glass curtains are Priscillas, or looped back, ruffled, cottagy-looking curtains. Ruffles may also, of course, be used as trim for the straight-hung types. Whiles ruffles may be bought by the yard ready-made, they are easy to make, particularly with a sewing machine attachment that both gathers and pleats. Generally the more sheer the fabric, the fuller the ruffle should be. It is considered proper to cut strips for ruffles the length of the material, since crosswise ruffles eventually lose their stiffness. This also eliminates the problem of seams. But for pleated ruffles it is necessary to cut on the crosswise thread. The Singer Company makes the suggestion that when using the Singer ruffler it is wise to test this attachment with a scrap of your fabric and adjust it to gather up just the amount of fullness you wish. Figure on having 3 times the length of your finished raffle for a moderately full ruffle.

It is customary to hem the edges of ruffles. For an even, narrow hem, effective in a sheer fabric, use a flange hemmer, if sewing by machine. To apply ruffles to the curtain, stitch them to the first row of stitching on the hem. Crowd the gathers up slightly at the corners. This results in a heading, or row of gathered tucks, on the portion of curtain which overlaps the  ruffle overlapping the curtain. To attach a ruffle without a heading, stitch it to the curtain, placing the wrong sides together as for a French seam, turn the material over the seam, bring the right sides together, and stitch on the wrong side through the first row of stitching. Double rows of ruffles are very feminine and pleasing, and if the ruffles are narrow, as many as five rows may be used.

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Curtains and Draperies Decorating Ideas

We have been concerned with the basic problems of curtain and drapery making. But you may want to use your imagination, and window treatments lend themselves to the fanciful touch.

Decorating your shades may prove amusing. Use regular canvas paint, available at art-material stores, and trace or free hand whatever gay design you like, whether it is a sophisticated abstraction or a quaint Pennsylvania Dutch or peasant motif. You can paint your entire shade to match or contrast with your walls or fabrics. If your draperies have a pattern, trace the pattern on the shade. With a broad window treat the shade as a mural, and paint a rural scene or seascape, thus enlarging the horizons of your room. Or, if you have found a stunning fabric that is too expensive for draperies, use it for shades that you make yourself.

Take your old shade as a guide, adding 2 inches for a hem and 2 for tacking the shade to the roller at the top. Hem the sides with a narrow hem. Use your old shade rod for your hand-made shade, binding it in with firm stitches.

Although bamboo blinds are very handsome in their natural state, if you have an elegant room, with metallic fabrics, echo the glint of the gold or silver with metallic paint, or better still with gold or silver leaf, brushed or streaked, very thinly, on your blinds. The effect seen from the outside is entrancingly rich. Another idea is to paint your blinds the color of your room. This also applies to the wider porch or slat type of blind which may be used on a large picture window.

When hanging bamboo blinds simply use large hooks at either end of the window to hold the top bamboo pole. Use cleats, like those used on sailboats, to fasten the rope that pulls them up. Attach these on the inside of the blind, and they will not be seen. Venetian blinds, now available in aluminum or galvanized steel, won't rust, sag, warp or break. They last for years.

In a small room with a high ceiling, you might continue your valance all the way round three walls, directly under the ceiling. This will help to focus attention on the window, and will seem to expand the walls.

If you have television, remember that plain white spaces make it easier to concentrate on the screen. Try a three-quarter length white opaque glass curtain, hung from a bold black or brass pole, and used with draperies that can be drawn aside when your set is in use.

The very newest idea in window styling is that of the fabric vertical blind, for average windows or for large picture windows and window walls. They are custom-made to varying designs by a handful of companies, but the hardware is not as yet available for making these blinds yourself. They are fairly reasonably priced in a wide range of modern bold and pastel colors, come in fabrics such as corded acetate faille, and can be drawn back from the window by one control, and set at angles by another. They are proving a handsome addition to sun-shielding devices for large glass areas.

Finally, use your imagination when it comes to tying in your draperies with your other fabrics. Use the same patterns or colors for portieres, slipcovers, spreads, lampshades. Ensembles, particularly for the bedroom, are more popular than ever. 

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Life-Saving Hints for Curtains and Draperies

Life-Saving Hints for Curtains and Draperies 

A few precautions in storing, cleaning and laundering your curtains and draperies will add to their attractiveness and prolong their usefulness.

Curtains may be kept up and hung in cotton bags during the summer, which is an effective way of keeping them clean when windows are open, or when the family is away on vacation, or storage space and help are limited.

If the unwashable draperies are taken down, they should be brushed, aired and packed away in large boxes. Never pack curtains tightly, since it is hard to get the creases out again. Pile fabrics should be sent to the cleaner to be steamed if they are badly crushed.

With sheers that you wish to put away for the summer, wash them first, and then in the fall dampen and iron them before putting up.

When laundering glass curtains, let the tucks out first so that you can correct the length afterward, using your shrinkage allowance if you have to, and leaving a smaller tuck than the original one for the next tubbing.

Instead of attempting to shake out dust, rinse the curtains in a preliminary tubful of clear, lukewarm water. You will discover that you have loosened black dirt too, especially if you live in the city. For delicate materials use lots of suds to cushion the material, more than you would with apparel. If yours is a sturdy fabric, it can be washed in a machine. Use a mild soap. Squeeze the water out, don't rinse, and hang the curtains straight. If the fabric is net or lace and is not shrinkproof, you will need to use a stretcher. With many shrinkable materials, no matter what pre- cautions you take you will have shrinking, and the only course remaining will be to add a new heading that is, of course, unless you have included plenty of room in your shrinkage allowance. A little starch used with most glass fabrics will help to make them look crisp after washing. Ruffles particularly need stiffening for attractive starchiness.

Life-Saving Hints for Curtains and Draperies 

With delicate fabrics and colors, rolling in a towel after washing will help to preserve both the color and the fabric.

Color-fast heavy fabrics may be laundered, if care is exercised. Curtains and draperies may be dyed or tinted each season, as you will find they do not keep their color.

Iron curtains lengthwise with a warm iron, stretching them evenly, and when you are through hang them immediately, or lay them on a bed as, again, creases are hard to take out. Sometimes ironing causes curtains to hang unevenly and there is not much you can do about this. Automatic ironers do a better job of ironing, since the pressure is even.

Curtains and draperies that are faded, soiled or sun- burned irremediably at the bottom may be turned upside down, and the damaged part can be covered with cornice or valance, or carefully pleated so that it does not show.

Luckily, curtains and draperies that are somewhat worn always look much better once they are hung than they do in our hands. And trimmings and ruffles over worn edges will word wonders. Also panels may be reversed quite easily, with the right-hand side changed to the left, so that the outside edge which is worn or faded can be next to the trim and tucked under as much as possible, the other edge which was formerly protected by the trim now appearing quite fresh and unfaded. 

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How to Hang Combination Tape Curtains

HANGING INSTRUCTIONS - PENCIL PLEAT CURTAINS

Ironing may be required before hanging - ensure iron is used on fabric side only.

STEP 1.

Ensure that the 4 cords of the tape are securely knotted at one end of the curtain. To Pencil Pleat the curtains use the 2 outside cords of the 4 cords on the heading tape.

STEP 2.

Hold the 2 outside cords and with your other hand gently push the heading along the cords until the fabric is pleated to its maximum, this forms the pleats. Ease the heading out again to the desired width, distributing the pleats evenly.

Tie a knot to hold them in place. Cut off the excess cord immediately past the knot to avoid a possible strangulation hazard. Ensure the end of the

cord is minimum of 1600mm above the floor.

STEP 3.

You will notice that the tape has 2 levels of hook pockets. This allows you to vary the finished length of your curtains. If you wish to hang the curtains below the track, use the top row of pockets for the curtain hooks. If you require the tracks to be covered, the bottom row should be

used.

To avoid creating a possible strangulation hazard for children, the corded internal window covering must be installed in such a way that a loose cord cannot form a loop 220mm or longer at a height of less than 1600mm above the floor level.

You must ensure that once installed to your satisfaction, the cords are tied and cut off the excess cord immediately past the knot to avoid a possible strangulation hazard. Ensure the end of the cord is minimum of 1600mm above the floor.

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How to Modernize Your Home in 3 Simple Ways

How to Modernize Your Home in 3 Simple Ways

I think when you want to revive and brighten up your home, a modern look is great. A modern home is usually decluttered and looks fresh and clean. It is a great idea to think about changes you can make in your house.

To update your home, it need not to be a stressful process and can be something you gradually apply into through phases. It also does not need to cost you a lot of money.

Here are just 3 ideas tips to help you accomplish a modern look to your home.

Home Decluttering

Home Decluttering

First of all you should take a good look at what is already in your home. Before you start buying anything new, get rid of what you do not need. Holidays are a great time to do this as you can donate what you do not want to a local secondhand store. Tackle one room at a time. Do not become too overwhelmed if it seems too much to do at first. Start in the kitchen, and make your way to the bathrooms, bedrooms, etc.

If you do not want to get completely rid of items that may mean a lot to you, you can at least declutter it from the room. Try to aim for only two to three items on a shelf or desk. By only choosing a few items to display, you can mentally decide what is important enough to keep and what you may not want.

Adding New Light

Adding New Light

It is extremely important for the atmosphere you are going for at the time. Changing your lighting does not need to be a huge task. You can start out simply by changing your light bulbs. If you have static light switches change them to dimmable light switches. Consider buying desk or floor lamps that suit the style of your room. By replacing or adding just a few lamps, you will be able to transform a dead space completely into a lively, bright place.

Make sure that your window spaces are not blocked, and natural light is allowed inside of your home. These are often the most beautiful places in your home, when you can see the sun coming through your window. Consider changing your curtains to white or a light color so that more light can shine.

Changing Colors

Changing Home Colors

If you are hoping to make your home feel new, a quick way to do this is change your color scheme. For a modern touch, consider lighter colors, preferably white. Of course, you can always pair this with another accent color of your choice. Consider this to be a color that will pop. You can also work with textures too, from wood to metal.

You can take this as far as you would like from repainting your entire home to just adding a few accent pieces in your home. An easy way to do this without spending too much money is to repaint a piece of existing furniture or a cheap one you can find at a secondhand store. Even adding in one new different thing can make a big change in the atmosphere of your home.

By applying these three simple changes, your home is already on its way to feeling like an entirely new space for you and your family to enjoy. Do not get too caught up on the whole process, but just take one step at a time, and soon you will feel that you have a brand new home.

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Cheap and Easy DIY Ideas to Update your Bathroom

Cheap and Easy DIY Ideas to Update your Bathroom

Because of the room getting numerous use, bathrooms get ragged looking quicker than the rest of the house. The little room also costs big cash to modernize and when those big cash are not in the budget, use these cheap and easy DIY ideas to update your bathroom and give it an entirely new interior design without undertaking a major home re-modeling project.

Now we will discuss some cheap and easy DIY ideas to update and modernize your bathroom:

Using New Curtains:

bathroom curtains

Create a new color scheme on the floor and work your way up by purchasing a colorful new rug for the bathroom floor. Choose your favorite color in the rug, then purchase a new shower curtain in that color and keep that color scheme going with a new pair of window curtains. Installing a new double-curved shower curtain rod will give you more elbow room inside the shower and an extra rod to hand damp towels out-of-sight.

A new coat of wall paint, semi or high-gloss, will make clean-up easy and update the bathroom for just a few bucks. Don’t be afraid to paint the bathroom cabinets as part of the interior design scheme, and add new hardware to the cabinetry.

Add a few colorful accessories around the room using other colors pulled from the new rug to give the updated space a unified look. Art work can be placed on bathroom walls, just be aware of the moisture and heat that permeates the air in the bathroom and select art work, like painted ceramic tiles, to use in the interior design.

Replacing Showerhead

Showerhead

You can get a spa-like experience while conserving water in your current shower with the right showerhead. With a few twists of a pair of pliers or a pipe wrench, you can install a new showerhead for less than 50 bucks. If you’re longing for a rain-shower head, you can get the experience without re-doing water pipes, purchase a rain showerhead that has an extension that fit right onto your current pipes.

Replace the Toilet Seat

Toilet Seat

Get a new toilet seat and install it yourself. This DIY update is not difficult and for under 20 bucks you will make the most important bathroom fixture look new again. Add new screw caps on the bottom (where applicable) and you’re done with that updating task.

Caulk and Grout

Caulk and Grout

Old caulking around the tub and sink looks dingy and dirty even when it’s clean. Remove the old caulk with a scraper and replace it with new, a cheap and easy DIY job that can be done for under $10.

Clean dingy grout lines with bleach (if white) or a specially formulated grout cleaner to make it look new again.

If the budget permits, invest in some new tiles and create a new vanity top, tub or shower surround. Tiling is a simple DIY project that instantly transforms any room of the home.

Organizing your Bathroom

Organizing your Bathroom

Getting all the grooming products organized is a very cheap and easy way to update the look of a bathroom, plus it cuts down on time spent in the bathroom when you don’t have to search for products. Purchase suction cup holders for shower storage, decorative baskets or small bins to store toiletries on and under the vanity.

If more storage is needed inside the bathroom, re-paint an old chest of drawers, nightstand or bookshelf to match bathroom décor and place it in the room to hold towels and toiletries. If there is no space for a piece of furniture, install self-adhesive hooks or a clear-pocket shoe bag on the back of the door and use as storage and keep things organized.

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How to Add Softness to your Home with Fabrics

How to Add Softness to your Home with Fabrics

Tired of the way your home looks?  Add a fresh, updated appearance to your home with fabric! Sewing for your home can be quick and easy, and you'll have professional results using timesaving methods that require a minimum of sewing skills.  If you don't sew at all, don't give up!  Many items can be created with no-sew techniques.  Guidelines are available for selecting fabrics appropriate for your project . . . whether you’re making the items yourself or having someone makes them for you. Fabric furnishings add softness and a distinctive character to any room.  You’ll discover almost limitless ways to use fabrics in decorating with curtains, draperies, upholstery, bedspreads, dust ruffles and tablecloths.  Fabrics are both attractive and practical on walls and ceilings or when used for room dividers, padded headboards for beds, wall hangings, picture frames, pillows of all kinds and shapes, storage devices and any number of other creative uses.  Look for ideas as you browse through decorating books and magazines or page through pattern books found at fabric stores.  Take time to observe the uses of fabrics in store displays, model homes and even the homes of your friends.  Don't try to copy ideas, however, but adapt them to create your own one-of-a-kind items.

 

Fabric Choices

Shopping for fabrics can be both fun and frustrating because there’s an unlimited variety of fabric colors, textures and designs available. Consider trying an idea used by professional designers by selecting a fabric in a pattern and colors that you like as the basis for a room’s color scheme.  More companies are now offering coordinating fabrics that make designing your room a real delight.  Wide fabric widths of 54", 60", 90" and even 120" mean less piecing and also reduce both cost and sewing time.  Bed sheets provide another source for wide widths of fabric in the latest colors and patterns.

Select fabrics that are appropriate for the intended use and desired method of care.  They should also look well with the other furnishings in the room.  Study design trends for current colors and patterns and be alert to new ideas that are starting to appear in stores and magazines. Then use these new colors and patterns to give your present furnishings an updated look.

How to Add Softness to your Home with Fabrics

Purchasing Pointers

As you are planning your project and selecting the fabric, consider the following guidelines:

* Know your budget limitations before you go out to buy. Having a price range established help to eliminate some choices immediately.

* Take time to plan your project carefully.  What colors are used in the room?  How will one pattern complement or blend with another?  What will this item add to the decor of the room?

* Measure carefully and write down these dimensions to take with you when shopping.  Also include a tape measure, pad, pencil, paint chips, fabric and carpet samples, so you'll be prepared for comparing colors and purchasing items that you need for the project.

* Be careful with color!  If you are considering either a bright or a dark color, will it be placed where direct sunlight will hit it?  Some dark colors fade very quickly, and bright, intense colors will stand out as new when combined with older furnishings in a room.  In situations such as this, choose more subdued or grayed colors.  And remember that colors change dramatically when viewed under different lighting or with different color combinations.  Play it safe by asking if a large sample is available to be taken out and viewed in the intended setting.  When samples are not available, purchase a yard to try out in your home in both daylight and night lighting.

* Examine the fabric construction before buying.  Remember that  fiber content, type of yarn, fabric construction and finishing techniques all play a part in determining the serviceability of the fabric.  As a rule, the tighter the yarns are twisted, the longer the wear you can reasonably expect.  The tighter the weave or higher the thread count (number of threads per inch), the stronger the fabric. It pays to use good quality fabrics for most decorating projects. The items last longer and give a finer finished look.  Consider, too, the  length of time you expect to use these items. You'll need a better quality fabric for draperies that you expect to last 10 to 15 years than you will for a pair of kitchen curtains that you plan to replace in two or three years.  Don't hesitate to ask your County Extension agent for help or guidance.

* Carefully evaluate the appropriateness of the fabric, color, pattern and texture, keeping the intended use in mind.   Is the fabric sturdy enough for the intended use?  Is it soft enough to drape if you want it to drape or crisp enough to hold a desired shape?

* Ask for and read carefully any labels and hang tags that are attached to, printed on or come with the fabric.  These are important guides in knowing how to care for your finished items.  If using a washable fabric, plan to pre-shrink it along with other materials, such as buckram or linings. Do not wash a fabric if dry cleaning is recommended.  Vacuum these items regularly to prevent dust from accumulating on the fabric surface.  It is recommended that fabrics be thoroughly vacuumed, dry cleaned or laundered after the pollen season for health reasons, especially if someone in your household has allergies.  Electronic air cleaners or regular cleaning/changing of the filter on forced-air furnaces will help to protect fabrics from dust.  Dust may also be removed by tumbling fabric items, such as drapery panels, in the clothes dryer without heat.

* Consider the size of a design when selecting fabric for your project.  Random patterns, small all over prints and stripes are easier to work with than large, strongly defined repeat patterns. Figuring the extra yardage that is needed for matching a repeat can become quite involved and add to the total cost of the project.  If you fall in love with a large or dominant pattern, be sure to purchase enough additional fabric to match patterns and complete the project.

* If a vertical line is important, such as for window curtains, be sure that any pattern is on-grain. Don't buy fabric that is printed off-grain or that has been pulled off-grain during finishing or wrapping on the bolt.  Examine the fabric carefully, and ask the sales clerk for help in determining if the fabric is grain perfect.

* If you are covering furniture or pillows, will the fabric require a lining to prevent showing through?  Most window coverings will be more durable and save energy if they are lined.

* Has the fabric been treated with a stain-repellant finish?  These finishes help in maintaining the appearance over a period of time.  To test the effectiveness of a stain resistant finish, drop a small amount of water on a fabric sample.  If the water beads up instead of soaking in, the fabric will repel stains.  After laundering or dry cleaning, this protective finish may need to be reapplied either by the dry cleaner or with a spray that can be purchased at retail stores.  However, read hang tags and warranties carefully for any precautions regarding recommended care and application of additional finishes.

* Buy all the fabric you need at one time and make a note of the dye lot number if available.  Dye lots differ, and what started as a raspberry color may turn brighter red in a later shipment. If a fabric continues to be available over a period of time and you decide to add more furnishings in the same or a coordinating fabric, be sure to check colors carefully before purchasing.

* Textile products and fabric furnishings are expected to be serviceable.  Ask yourself which of the following characteristics are most important--durability, comfort, care, appearance, fashion or price.  Use these rankings as guidelines when making your final selections.     

* Remember . . . haste makes waste.  Take time to think each project through carefully.  Allow time, too, to consider creative ways of finishing your project.  A little extra time and some imagination can turn the ordinary into the unusual and distinctive.

 

* Enjoy the creative process you are experiencing.  Then appreciate the praise and satisfaction you’ll receive for a job well done!

How to Add Softness to your Home with Fabrics

Figuring Fabric Amounts

Determining the amount of fabric that is needed for a project can be confusing.  However, it's not really difficult!  Purchased patterns and project instructions give instructions for yardage and suggested pattern placement for cutting pieces.  You can also make your own "layouts" just like those in pattern instructions to make best use of fabric if using odd shapes and sizes. To do this, use graph paper to draw rectangles to scale to represent widths of 45", 54" and 60" (or 90" and 120" widths if you know that you will be shopping for these wider fabrics).  Make a number of copies to use as "master" forms.

For each project, refer to the measurements you have taken and sketch out the pieces you'll need (fronts, backs, sides) on your master.  These sketches will tell you how many yards are needed for the width of fabric you are considering.  If piecing is necessary, you will also be able to determine how many "lengths" of fabric will be required to complete the project.  (Before you actually purchase fabric, remember to consider any additional allowances that may be needed for ½ inch seams, hems, directional patterns, fabric nap, design repeats and loft from batting or filler.)

Joining Lengths of Fabrics

When figuring the amount of yardage needed, remember that the primary rule for positioning seams is to make them as inconspicuous as possible. That usually means that seams will be placed on the side, rather than down the center of tablecloths and bedspreads.

Use selvage edges when possible for sewing lengths of fabric together.  Be sure to add ½ inch seam allowances to each piece for seams.

How to Add Softness to your Home with Fabrics

Matching Patterns

Any design repeat must be measured and figured carefully when purchasing fabrics.  Small prints may not be that noticeable, but larger prints can be as much as twenty or thirty inches in length for one repeat.  Measure the repeat on the fabric you are considering and add to the required yardage of each length to be pieced.  (For instance, there should be a full design repeat positioned along the top of each panel on fabric-covered walls or along the top of each curtain and drapery panel.)

One-Way Designs

If arranging pieces on a one-way design or napped fabric, such as velvet or corduroy, be sure that all pieces are placed in the correct (same) direction.  Check to be sure that patterns are matched when necessary and that large motifs are centered on cushions and tablecloths.

Also, check the design repeat across the width of the fabric to be sure that you will have enough fabric to complete your project as you would like for it to be finished.

Trims

Fringe, tassels, braid, cording, lace, ribbons and bows add distinction and character to otherwise plain items.  Consider the decorating style in the room as well as the weight and recommended care of fabric when you are selecting trims.  When planning the placement of trimmings, mark guidelines with either a water-soluble marking pen or a marker using ink that disappears. A glue stick will hold the trim in place while stitching.  Some trims can be attached with fusible fabric or glue.

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