How to Measure Glass Curtains

How to Measure Glass Curtains

Glass curtains traditionally were hung close to the glass to assure privacy and diffuse light, even when the draperies were drawn open, and consequently they were placed just inside the window frame, next to the top window sash, either to just above or just below the apron, or mouldings, of the window sill. But it is also proper to have glass curtains hang to the

moulding or just clear the floor when no draperies are used. And, increasingly, the new popular window sheer curtains, used by themselves, hung on traverse rods, fall to the floor. If you have built-in window seats, bookshelves, or radiators just below the sill, don't try to conceal them with a glass curtain, but have your curtain extend only to the sill or built-in surface.

How to Measure Glass Curtains

After obtaining the length, you will want to add to it extra inches for hems, casings, headings and shrinkage. For your double top hem you will need 4 inches (this includes a double fold-over for stiffness or for your heading). For your double hem on the bottom, you will want at least 2% inches, although it is currently fashionable to have a generous 5-inch hem at the bottom. If you plan to buy a ready-made trim you need only one-half inch to use for the turn. Then also allow at least 1 inch to each yard of curtain length for shrinkage, unless you buy a shrink fast material. Generally speaking, as has been said, the problem of shrinkage is more serious with a coarser weave.

Curtain fabrics usually come in 36, 50, 72 and 90 inch widths. For under-curtains or glass curtains you will want soft folds for which you plan to have 1% times the width of the window in material. If your fabric is very sheer, allow for twice the width. (This is the case with voile, orlon, nylon, fiberglass, etc.) Measure the window from jamb to jamb for the average double hung window where you will want the glass curtain to come within the framework of the over draperies. But in the case of picture windows or window-wall glass curtains, your traverse rod will extend beyond the window frame work some 3 or 4 inches.

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How to Measure Curtains and Hangings, Part 1

IN measuring for hangings one must be accurate. It is astonishing and sometimes heart-rending to see the havoc an inch too little or too much will make in a curtain when hung. Every measurement should be taken with a 3-foot rule, not a tape measure, which stretches, and carefully recorded. A good idea for the amateur is to have a blank book in which to set down the outside and inside measurements of each window trim, also a sketch.

Even if one is far from being an artist, sketch in a curtain scheme, being sure the window is drawn to scale. This is easily done. Use a measure divided into 12ths of an inch, count each 12th as an inch and you have at once the foot, and three feet make a yard. Thus 3 inches in scale make one yard in reality. Your window may be 5% feet by '3 feet ; you have 5% inches by 3 inches to draw. Then sketch in your curtain. This sketching process is helpful when double or triple windows are used, with or without a transom. It is always a problem how to treat these, and if you have sketched the curtain in you have never to say, " Well, I might like it, but I cannot just picture how it will look."

Besides the sketch of the window put where the sash curtain is to be hung and the height and width finished, also mark with a dot where the rod is to be attached. Under RODS put how many rods of each length and how much thin material, allowing always 6 inches on each curtain for hems and headings, therefore the amount of the material will be greater than the added figure of the curtain finished. Put beside the amount of the material the width, the price, and the shop where purchased. Scrim, muslin and nets come in various widths ; sometimes by using a wide width and splitting it you get better material at a lower price. A simple way for thin hangings is to run a flat tape through the hem, allowing for a small heading. Shirr the curtain the width it is to cover and tack directly on to the window sash, or better, sew rings on the back and use a rod. Curtains of soft net, scrim or muslin are best shirred, but if the material is bulky and not pliable, they should be pleated. Always allow 2 inches for full length curtains at the top for possible shrinkage, and the coarser the weave the more shrinkage is to be considered.

For heavier hangings, the problem is quite the same. First we must decide what part of the trim they are to go on, then with the measurements of our sketch exact we can get the exact length of the curtains themselves. Put down the length finished.

Next we must decide on the style and width of heading. A plain gathered heading of 2 inches in cotton materials is a good proportion. A French heading takes from 3 inches to 4 inches. Curtains may be hemmed at the top and the rod run through, thus shirring them, or they may have a hem with a heading and the rod run through the hem. The width between the two stitchings should be a little less than twice the diameter of the rod. For example, for a 1-inch rod allow 1% inches between the stitchings this allows for possible shrinkage.

Now, that the top methods and measurements have been disposed of, consider the hem. In thin materials, it should be 3 ply, as this adds firmness and weight sufficient to keep the curtain in place and to hang well. The prettiest finish for scrim is the hemstitch ; this can be easily done and adds much to the otherwise common-placeness of the curtain. Such hem or hemstitching requires twice the width of the hem. For large windows and full length sash curtains, a good width for the hem is 3 inches, for shorter windows less. Sometimes the curtain is turned up on the right side and a fringe or guimpe is stitched on. Charming chintz edgings come, and if these are chosen to repeat the colors of the overhangings, the effect is very attractive. Never turn a wide hem and apply guimpe or fringe on the edge. The edging should act as a finish. It should be begun on the top of the inside length of the curtain and brought down and around the bottom edge. It should not be carried around the outside edge or at the top. As this method requires less material than a hem allow at most an inch for turn-in in measuring.

The lined curtain comes next. If a curtain is lined we have no hem to consider. At the top, the material itself should form the heading, as the inside of the heading shows if it happens to turn over. The lining should start at the bottom of the heading and end one inch above the bottom of the curtain. It should not come down flush with the bottom. It should come within 1 inch or inches of the sides. Therefore, in measuring for material for lined curtains, allow the width of the heading, the length of the curtain and 2 inches extra from the length at the bottom for turn up. In measuring the lining, allow the full length of the curtain minus the width of the heading and the 1 inch at the bottom, also 1 inch at each side. Sateen, which comes in 50-inch width at the upholstery counter, is a heavier, better quality lining than any found at regular lining departments.

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How to Measure Curtains and Hangings, Part 2

We should now have in our measurement book the following: the length of the finished curtains, the amount of the material required for each curtain and also for the pair; the exact measurement of the lining when applied and finished, and also the amount required. For the edging we have the finished length and width, allowing 6 inches for the corner and turn ins, and twice that for the pair. If there are several windows of the same measurements we have only to multiply the amounts required by the windows.

Materials come in two widths, 81 inches and 50 inches, perhaps varying an inch or so. We can use the full 31 inches or we may split the 50 inches. Provided the pattern lends itself to this division and the window openings are not too wide to allow for it, the 50-inch goods work to better advantage. It comes in more handsome designs and sometimes in superior material. The edges if possible should have an applied edging, not hemmed, for every inch of the 25 will be needed. Often with elaborate under-hangings all that is wanted is a straight fold of color to carry out a scheme in a room and the 25-inch curtains do this admirably. In the bedroom, where the 50-inch material is used as a bedcover, the same material split answers well for the curtains. Thus in measuring, using half width, you need just half as much material. Thus far we have reckoned using curtains without valances. To measure for valances requires much time and thought, as they are as varied as the ingenuity of man or woman can make them. But since we are dealing with a simpler sort of curtain, that the ambitious householder may make for herself, we shall put aside for the professional the elaborate valance.

Of valances, there are gathered, pleated and stiff valances or lambrequins fitted over the window casing and covering over the sides as well. In measuring material for a pleated and shirred valance allow 1/3 to 1/2 extra of the width completed and from 12 inches depth in the bedroom to 18 inches for a more formal treatment. For instance, in a bedroom using a split 50-inch material for side curtains, the entire Width may be used for a valance of 12 inches. This does not include a 2-inch hem or the heading. Avoid making the valances too full, as they stick out, or too skimpy, as they look meager and economical. If a flat valance is used the amount of the material depends upon the width of the window. One width will probably do for this valance. If the valance is shaped and lined we must allow 2 inches for the top and bottom turn-in. Of course, in a shaped valance, the measurement must be taken from the widest part.

We must always allow in figured goods, for the repeat and the amount of goods wasted must be reckoned in the cost. Sometimes this material may be used in the valance.

In a large spread design it is surprising how little the general motif shows when the curtain is hung. If we are undecided about the necessity of matching up a design in a pair of curtains we can always gather up the material and pin it over the back of a chair or screen and see how important the strong motif appears when gathered. If it shows decidedly, match up the pairs perfectly; if not, we can hang them as the cloth cuts and consider ourselves lucky.

Having the measurement of the material required for each pair of curtains and the valance, we have only to add up the amounts in the various windows, multiply this by the price per yard and we have the cost of the material. Add the cost of the lining and the edging and we have an estimate that should be accurate. Damask, velours and such handsome materials require interlining of canton flannel. This is too big an undertaking for the amateur. The cost of the material warrants their being made up in a proficient manner.

In making curtains, use a large table which you can walk around. A bed usually answers the purpose but a table is better. Use a good sewing machine, baste carefully and cut by thread, with the exception of very cheap cretonnes. This is one reason why cheap cretonnes scarcely pay, as they cannot be cut by a thread, as the weave is too imperfect and when they are laundered this imperfection makes them skew. Sash curtains should always be cut by a thread, as they must be laundered regularly. Scrim is preferable to muslin, as the weave is more even.

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Why does it Cost So Much to Buy Made to Measure Curtains?

Why does it Cost So Much to Buy Made to Measure Curtains?

Generally speaking, you will be possibly surprised by the prices if you have already been shopping for made to measure curtains to fit your bay window. Consequently, what is the reason that they cost so much money...?

To start with a big portion of the cost can be for the curtain fabric itself. Some prominent name designer fabrics can cost way above £ 100 per metre. If you think that some windows need curtains using between 15 and 25 metres of fabric. You can see how the bill can turn in to large numbers very rapidly.

Nevertheless, you don't need to spend anywhere that amount to get some really great curtain fabrics. If you shop around a bit particularly online you can get appropriate fabrics from around £ 8.00 per metre upwards. Sometimes' it could be even less.

The length is another big problem with trying to hang ready made curtains.....!!!!

Secondly, you will find that they are often either "too long or too short" to fit your window accurately. This means you end up having to fit your the curtain track higher or lower than you really want to try and get them to hang just right. Even worse your curtains end up hanging short of either the floor or window sill level.

This bay window treatment also uses an upholstered fabric covered window pelmet to decorate the top of the window. This also hides the bay window curtain track and other window curtain hardware

I suppose you will agree that this makes for a really super smart looking set of curtains. If you bought these for your bay window your friends and family would see straight away that you have had designer curtains made and fitted professionally.

These curtains are also hanging from a custom made metal bay window curtain track with nylon curtain gliders. These will carry a lot of weight and operate smoothly for many years.

These bay window curtain tracks are also made to overlap in the middle. This makes your curtains close properly and look professionally installed.

The curtains in the window treatment picture at the top of this page are made from a faux silk fabric and have a bonded interline on the back. This is a regular curtain lining bonded on to a layer of curtain interlining. This gives the curtains what is called "body". It creates a thicker more luxurious looking curtain.

I will only make curtains this way when using light fabrics such as silk, taffetas and others made from light polyester fibers. This kind of curtain lining transforms what are nice but very light curtain fabrics in to substantial full bodied luxury looking curtains.

Heavier fabrics such as damasks, velvet and chenille can be made with a cotton sateen lining fabric and still look good. However you can still choose to have the thicker lining option. It's really just a matter of personal preference when making curtains from these kinds of curtains.

If you like the look of these bay window curtains with a fabric covered bay window pelmet. Then why not have look just below at what It would cost to get some just like this in your own home.

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How to Put Curtains all Together

How to Put Curtains all Together

How to join the curtain widths

The first step in putting it all together is joining the full widths of fabric to the half widths of fabric.

You will join the widths of fabric using “wonder web” a fusible iron on tape that glues fabrics together.

 Lay the fabrics patterned sides facing together. Then line up the side seams so they lay together  and insert a strip of wonder web between the side seams.

Then press on with a hot steam iron this will glue the fabrics together. I put my ironing board next to the table. Then lay the fabric over the table and ironing board.  This join should be reasonably solid, but it will not put up with a lot of tugging.

So exercise some care when making and using your new curtains. Then fold over the two side seams you have glued together. Then glue down again with another strip of wonder web to double secure the seam.

How to create the curtain side seams

The next step is to turn over the sides of your fabric First turn over one inch and press down then turn over one inch again. Then slip a strip of wonder web under the new turnover and press down again with a hot steam iron. Repeat this for the other 3 sides.

How to create the curtain bottom hem

To create the bottom hem is nice and easy. Fold over the fabric one inch and press down. Then turn over a further 3 inches and press down. Finally place a strip of wonder web under the top edge of the turnover and press down using a hot steam iron.

Finally, how to make the top of your curtain

You need to turn over the fabric at the top of your curtain by 2 inches and press down. Then turn over again by 5 inches and press down.

Next step is to wrap your 5 inch wide fusible buckram into the fabric. This is going to form your curtain header. The buckram tape is stiffener that will give us a good shape to the top of our curtain. It is what will make the wave effect that we want.

Then you need to press down the header with the buckram wrapped in with your steam iron. I recommend you press down both sides. Were getting close to finishing now the final step is to insert a strip of your wonder web under the bottom edge of your new header. This will hold down the header where it is folded over.

The photo below is the finished curtain header ready to have the hooks put in. We need special curtain hooks for this job.

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How Much Fabric You Will Require to Make Your Wave Top Curtains

How Much Fabric You Will Require to Make Your Wave Top Curtains 

The first step

Before you decide how much fabric you need you need to decide what your going to hang your new curtains from. Is it going to be a rod/pole or a curtain track?

If its already fitted then great that save some work. Let's assume for this example that we need to fit the curtain hardware. As a rough rule of thumb I fit the rod or track half way between the top of the window and the ceiling.  If there's a lot of space over your window and think to go half way would look odd. Then fix your curtain rod or track a good 4 to 5 inches over the window.

Now How to measure the width

Once you have your curtain hardware fitted over your window, you can now take accurate measurements. The first size you need to measure is the width of your track or rod. Your curtain track or rod should be 5 to 10 inches wider than your window frame each side. The wider the window the more you go out each side. For example a window 4ft wide then 5 inches either side would be good. If your widow is 8 ft then go out 10 inches each side with your curtain hardware.

The reason for the extra width is so that when you open your curtains they can pull back off the window. The meeting edges of your curtains can come a little way onto the glass area but not to much or it starts to make your room a bit to dark.

Next how to measure your curtain length

If measuring curtains to hang from a rod/pole then start from the bottom of the curtain rod ring. Then measure down to where you want the curtain to stop. For example a few inches past the window sill. Maybe to just reach the floor and even sometimes to drape onto the floor (non working dress curtains usually). This measurement is called the “drop”.

If measuring curtains to hang from a curtain track then start from the top edge of the track and measure down to where you want your curtains to finish.

Cutting your fabrics

Now you need to clear the dining room table or your curtains are going to be really big. Then work on the floor as long as its a hard surface and clean. You will only need a pencil or chalk to mark the cutting line on your fabric. Also your sharp pair of scissors for this step.

We will keep to our 6 ft wide rod example for this, so we will need 3 drops of fabric at 93 inches long. If you are using plain fabric then simply cut 3 lengths at 97 inches (85 inches plus 12 inches for hem turnovers).

If you are using patterned fabric then you would need 3 drop of fabric again. This time it would be cut at 97 inches long. (85 inches plus 12 inches for the pattern repeat. This could be more if the pattern repeat is more).

Laying out the first piece of fabric

Cutting plain fabric:

Lay out your fabric ready to mark and cut then using your straight edge (my spirit level) mark a line across the fabric at 97 inches. Repeat this 3 times.

Then take one drop of your fabric and fold in half along the drop of the curtain. Then cut straight up the middle. This will give you the half width for each curtain.

That's it for the cutting of your plain fabric next step is putting it all together.

Cutting patterned fabric:

Lay out your fabric ready to mark and cut then using your straight edge (my spirit level) mark a line across the fabric at 97 inches. This fabric comes folded in half down the middle, I usually fold all my fabric this way so it fits onto the width of my table. It makes it so much easier when cutting.

The photo on the previous page shows you the pencil line across the fabric. I used my straight edge to do this line at 97 inches from the top. You can then cut along this line which will give you your first length of fabric. Now you need to cut another 2 lengths of fabric.

Next lift up the first piece of fabric and lay out more fabric. Then bring back your first piece of cut fabric and lay on top. Now you need to match the pattern by moving the top cut piece down the fabric until the pattern on the top piece is lined up with the pattern on the bottom fabric. You will probably have a few inches of fabric more at the top.

Then you can cut the other end of the fabric underneath. You now have 2 drops of your curtain. Repeat the whole process again for the third drop of fabric.

Then cut along the pencil lines. Repeating this couple of times will give us the 3 drops of fabric we need for this example. If you look at the edge of the fabric you will see a row of letters. This usually gives you the design name.

Then take one drop of your fabric and fold in half along the drop of the curtain. Then cut straight up the middle. This will give you the half width for each curtain.

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Instructions on How to Calculate Your Fabric Amounts for your Curtain

Instructions on How to Calculate Your Fabric Amounts for your Curtain

First, you should know that the key to the amount of fabric you need to buy to make your curtains is the design of curtain heading and the hanging method you choose.

Previously, you should know the type of curtain heading you want to achieve. And you've installed an appropriate track or pole system over your window. OK, now you're ready to measure up for the fabric quantity you need to purchase.

·  Measure the width of your curtain pole, track, or wire hanging system. Exclude the width of finials if using a decorative pole. But do include the width of the return brackets on your curtain track or pole if you have them.

·  Multiply this width by 1.5, 2 or 2.25 depending upon the amount of fullness required for your heading (see below).

Goblet pleat: multiply your width by 2.25 
Pierced heading: multiply your width by 1.5 
Smocked heading: multiply your width by 2 
Pinch (French) pleats: multiply your width by 2.25 
Rod pocket(slotted,cased,channelled): multiply your fabric width by 2.5 
Pencil pleat: multiply your width by 2.5 
Gathered: multiply your width by 2 

·  Divide this number by the width of your chosen fabric. (Standard fabric is normally 137cm (54") wide, but check when you buy). Round up to the nearest whole number. This is the number of widths of fabric required.

·  Measure the finished length of the curtains you require. If using a decorative pole, start measuring from the base of the ring from which the curtain will hang. If using a track, measure from 1cm above the top edge of the track so your curtain heading hides the track. If using a curtain wire system for pierced headings, measure from where the top of the curtain panels will be, remembering that you will make pierced holes in your fabric about 6cm from the top edge of the fabric.If making a rod pocket heading, measure from the bottom of your pole to the floor, then add 25cm for the stand-up frill and pocket you will create.

·  Add 10 cm to the top and 10 cm to the bottom of the length for hems in all cases. This gives you your cutting length.

·  Multiply the number of widths by the cutting length. This is the amount of fabric you need to buy.

If you are buying a fabric with a distinct pattern, you need to pattern match so that when the curtains are drawn together, the pattern matches up exactly on both inside edges where the curtains meet.

To allow enough fabric for pattern matching, add the following calculation:

·  Take the cutting length you have calculated. Add the length of the pattern repeat (the pattern repeat length should be stated on the label attached to the fabric roll in the shop).

·  Use this new, final cutting length and multiply by the number of widths. This is the amount of fabric you need to buy for fabric with a pattern repeat.

Here is an example of calculating the correct fabric amount required for a pair of curtains

The following gives an example of how to calculate the correct fabric amount for a pair of curtains.

Let's assume that I want to make curtains for a wide window and have attached a curtain pole above the window. The pole measures 240cm wide. I have decided I want a pinch (french) pleated heading and full length curtains that touch the floor. The distance between the bottom of the rings on the pole and the floor is 175cm. I have chosen a fabric with a distinct pattern repeat that measures 37cm, and therefore must ensure that I allow enough fabric for pattern matching.

·  Chosen heading: Pinch (French) pleats

·  Curtain pole width: 240cm

·  Finished length: 175cm

·  Pattern repeat: 37cm

Calculating number of widths

·  Width of curtain pole: 240cm

·  Multiply by 2.25 for pinch pleats: 540cm

·  Divide by fabric width of 137cm: 3.941

·  Round up to the nearest whole number: 4

The number of required widths of fabric is 4. 

How to calculate the length

·  Finish length of curtains: 175cm

·  Add hem allowance of 10cm to the top and 10cm to the bottom: 195cm

·  Add pattern repeat of 37cm: 232cm

·  Multiply the final cutting length of 232cm by our number of required widths which is 4: 928cm

I need to purchase 9.5 meters of fabric to make these curtains.

How to cut the fabric

·  As the total number of widths required is 4, that means each curtain will have 2 widths joined together.

·  Cut 4 lengths of fabric from your purchased roll, each length should measure 232cm long.Be certain to cut exactly straight across your fabric, at right angles to the length of your fabric. Marking your line with tailor's chalk and checking your measurements before you make the first cut is a good idea.

·  Your first job will be to join 2 fabric lengths together. Be sure to match up the pattern repeat at the join.See our instructions "Joining fabric panels"

·  Join the remaining 2 fabric lengths together, again matching the pattern. Trim any access fabric from the top and bottom of the lengths, so your length of each double curtain panel is 232cm.

·  Now you are ready to sew your curtains.

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How to Create Curtains for Your Own Home

How to Create Curtains for Your Own Home

To insert curtains to a room is a way to directly transform the whole look. Window treatments can be very costly, but, and a lot of people do not desire to spend a lot of money on something that seems like it is more surface than practical. Fortunately, with a little bit of sewing knowledge, it is easy to learn how to make curtains for your home.

Firstly, it is imperative to suppose about what sort of curtain will look best in the room. There is a variety of curtain styles and some may be more suitable for a given space than another. In addition, some are far more hard to make than others. The person doing the sewing should think frankly about their level of ability and choose something they can handle so that the curtains come out looking great.

It is also essential to take precise measurements when preparing to make curtains. If there is not enough fabric, the curtains clearly will not suit the window. If there is too much, it could make the whole project more difficult and time consuming. The right amount of cloth is six inches longer than the distance from the curtain rod to the window sill and two times the width of the window.

To make a necessary curtain does not need a great deal of particular sewing skill. It can be accomplished mainly by sewing hems and attaching curtain rings. For a more complicated style of curtain, it may be necessary to do more complicated stitches or patterns. Be sure to read the directions for each type of curtain carefully before beginning the project.

There is no reason that you should have to spend a fortune on window treatments if you know how to make curtains for your home. A basic knowledge of sewing is all that is needed to create simple curtains to enhance the look of any room in the house. Before going out and spending a lot of money on curtains, pick out a pattern and give it a try.

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Instructions for Making Roller Blinds

Instructions for Making Roller Blinds

 

The most practical treatment for windows throughout the home and ideal for the kitchen and bathroom. Roller blinds, or roller shades as they are sometimes known, use a minimal amount of fabric, lay flat against the window and roll up to let a maximum amount of light into the room. Best mounted inside the window recess roller blinds can be teamed up with curtains, valances, pelmets and swags and tails to give a coordinating look.

Usually roller blinds pull down from behind the roller, keeping them very close to the window. However, if a fabric is used where the pattern or colour is printed on one side and does not show through to the other side, it can pull down in front of the roller. In this case there could be light showing at each side of the blind as it is not so close to the window.

Most roller blinds are made from kits which come in a range of sizes up to 8 feet (245 cms) wide but, if the size of your window falls between sizes buy the next size up and cut it to size after the brackets have been fitted. Specially stiffened, spongeable fabrics can be bought by the metre and are available up to 69 inches (175 cms) wide. This makes joining widths of fabric unnecessary in most cases as bulky seams can impair the working of the blind. Other fabrics can be used but should be closely woven, lightweight and colourfast. These will need to be stiffened with an aerosol spray or dipped into liquid stiffening solution before they are cut to size as this process may cause the fabric to shrink, but it does stop the fabric from fraying which omits the need for side hems.

Requirements:

Roller blind kit with a side pulley mechanism, cut to the required size and fitted inside or outside the window recess.

Fabric.

Fabric stiffener.

Matching thread.

Set square, ruler, pencil and sharp scissors.

Double sided adhesive tape, approximately 0.5" (12 mm) wide.

Measuring and Estimating Fabric Quantities:

• If the chosen fabric needs to be stiffened, this must be done before the fabric is cut to size as it may shrink. Add at least 2" (5 cms) to the width and length to allow for this.
• The width of the blind is the same width as the roller excluding the end fixtures. There is no need to add hem allowances as the stiffened fabric will not fray.
• The length of the blind, measure from the roller to the window sill and add a minimum of 12" (30 cms) for the roller to be covered with fabric and the casing allowance. For blinds outside the recess, add a further 2" (5 cms) to the length. If the blind is to hang where it might get splashed or stained easily, it is worth adding extra length so that the bottom can be cut off when it gets dirty. This will add to the life of the blind. For blinds with a decorative edge at the bottom, add an extra 6” (15 cms) to the length.

Making a Plain Roller Blind:

• Stiffen the fabric following the manufacturers instructions, allow to dry and press.
• Cut the fabric to the required size, using a set square to make sure all the sides are absolutely square.
• Lay the fabric on a flat surface, wrong side up, turn up 1.5" (3.75 cms) at the bottom edge and stitch close to the raw edge. This measurement should be slightly bigger than half the circumference of the dowel. It can be adjusted to fit any size of dowel.
• Cut the dowel 0.75" (2 cms) shorter than the width of the blind and slide it into the casing.
• Lay the blind on a flat surface and mark a line across the width, 0.5" (12 mm) down from the top edge. If the blind is to roll down from behind the roller, mark this line on the right side of the fabric. If the blind is to hang down in front of the roller, mark the line on the wrong side of the fabric.
• Position a length of double sided adhesive tape along the top edge of the blind, along the marked line.
• Lay the roller on a flat surface, making sure that the pulley mechanism is to the correct side.
• Remove the protective strip from the adhesive tape and press the top edge of the fabric onto the roller. Make sure that the top edge of the fabric is aligned exactly along the marked line on the roller.
• Roll up the blind by hand, slot it into the brackets and pull the blind down.
• Work the blind up and down until the required tension is achieved.

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Instructions for Making Roman Blinds

Instructions for Making Roman Blinds

 

With their clean, sophisticated lines, Roman blinds, or Roman shades as they are sometimes known, are one of the most stylish ways to dress up a window.

They can be used as a standalone window treatment fitted outside the window or fitted inside the window recess and combined with curtains and top treatments for a layered look.

Roman blinds are best made from light to medium weight fabrics and are usually lined.

Requirements:

Fabric.

Lining.

Strips of wooden or plastic dowelling, 1.25" (3 cms) less than the blind's width.

Small plastic rings, approximately 0.5" (12mm) in diameter.

Wooden or brass acorn.

Nylon cord, 3 x (twice the length of the blind + the width of blind).

Wall cleat.

Stick and sew Velcro enough for the width of the blind.

Wooden Batten approx 1” (2.5cms) x 1” (2.5 cms) x the width of the finished blind.

4 screw eyelets.

How to Measure and Estimate Fabric Quantities:

• Fix the blind track or wooden batten in the chosen position. If the blind is to hang inside the window recess, fix it to the underside of the window frame. If the blind is to hang outside of the recess, fix it to the top of the window frame or above it.
• Attach the adhesive side of the Velcro to the front edge of the wooden batten.
• To calculate the length of fabric required, measure from the top of the track or batten to the chosen length. Add the relevant hem allowances for the style of blind to be made. Allow extra length for pattern matching where necessary.
• The length of lining required will be the same as the fabric requirements minus any extra for pattern matching.
• To calculate the width of the fabric required, measure the length of the track or batten and add the relevant amount of seam allowance for the style of Roman blind to be made. Divide this number by the width of the fabric to be used and round up to the next whole number. This will be the number of widths of fabric required. Allow an extra 1" (2.5 cms) for each seam when joining widths together and make sure a full width is positioned in the centre with equal part widths added at each side.
• The number of widths of lining required will be the same as the number of widths of fabric.

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How to Make a Plain Roman Blind

How to Make a Plain Roman Blind

 ·  Cut the fabric to the required size adding 2” (5 cms) to the width for side seam allowances and 2" (5 cms) to the length for hem allowances. If more than 1 width of fabric is required, join widths together with a flat seam. Make sure there is a full width in the centre with equal part widths added at each side. If patterned fabric is used, match the pattern across all the widths.

·  Cut out the lining to exactly the same measurements as the top fabric, omitting any extra allowance for pattern matching.

·  Lay fabric on a flat surface, right side up.

·  Lay the lining on top, wrong side up, matching the raw edges. Smooth out all the wrinkles and creases from the two fabrics and pin them together.

·  Pin and stitch down both sides and along the bottom edges, 1" (2.5cms) in from the raw edges.

·  Trim the 2 bottom corners and make a second row of stitches across the bottom, 0.25” (6 mm) in from the raw edge. Insert a dowel into the channel between the 2 rows of stitches.


· Remove all the pins and turn the blind the right side out.

·  Press the blind, taking care to press out and flatten the seams.

·  Lay the blind on a flat surface, lining side up, and pin the two layers together all over.

·  Draw a pencil line across the width of the blind, 2" (5 cms) down from the top raw edge.

·  Divide the rest of the length into equal sections of between 8" and 12" (20 and 30cms) with a half section at the bottom edge and mark.

·  Draw pencil lines across the blind at these marks. All these lines should be parallel to the top edge and at right angles to the sides. These will be the sewing lines for the pockets.

·  To make up the pockets to hold the dowels, cut strips of lining fabric 3" (7.5 cms) wide and as long as the blind is wide. If possible, cut these strips from the length of the fabric rather than across the width as the weave is tighter and the pockets will wear better. Cut 1 strip for each whole pleat.

·  Fold each strip in half width ways, right sides together and matching the raw edges.

·  Machine stitch across 1 end and down the length 0.5" (12mm) in from the raw edges.

·  Turn right side out and press.

·  Pin the folded side of the pockets to the pencil lines, 0.5" (12 mm) above the marked lines with the ends of the pockets 0.5" (12mm) in from each side of the blind.

·  Sew the pockets to the blind along the marked lines.

·  The machine stitching should be as unobtrusive as possible on the front of the blind.

·  Slide a length of wooden dowelling into each pocket and oversew the open ends.

·  Hand sew the plastic rings to the outer edges of the pockets. These should be positioned in rows down the length of the blind, 2" (5 cms) in from each side edge and between 8" to 16" (20 to 40cms) intervals evenly across the blind.

·  Turn down 1" (2.5 cms) to the wrong side, at the top edge and press.

·  Pin and stitch the “sew” side of the Velcro across the top of the blind, on the wrong side, close to the fold. Stitch both sides in the same direction to avoid puckering.

·  Hang the blind by pressing the 2 sides of the Velcro together.

·  Screw an eyelet into the underside of the batten directly above each line of rings on the blind and 1 at the end of the batten to the side that the blind will be operated from.

·  Cut the nylon cord into 3 and knot 1 length to each bottom ring. Thread the cords up through the line of rings and through the eyes on the batten taking all 3 cords to 1 side of the window.

·  Trim the ends of the cords level, thread them through the acorn and knot to secure.

·  Position a cleat at a convenient height at the side of the window and fix in place.

·  Pull up the blind, winding the cords round the cleat in a figure of 8 to hold it in place.

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